Push the potential of the practical sheet pan

It’s been more than a decade since the low-rimmed, rolled-edge sheet pan long associated with commercial kitchens became a permanent fixture in the home cook’s arsenal. Along the way, editors and influencers promoted this unassuming workhorse, which is why, as of this writing, an Instagram search of “#sheetpandinner”yields a whopping 73,302 posts.

So when Olga Massov and Sanae Lemoine’s“Hot Sheet: Sweet and Savory Sheet Pan Recipes for Every Day and Celebrations”(Harvest, $32.50) arrived, my first thought was,“What does this volume offer that I can’t find elsewhere?” It turns out, plenty.

The appeal of this collection of onepan wonders reflects the creativity and diverse backgrounds of the authors, who became fast friends when they met several years ago. Massov is a cookbook writer and editor of The Washington Post’s Food section who lives near Washington, D.C.; Lemoine is a novelist and former cookbook editor of Japanese and French heritage who grew up in France and Australia and now lives in Brooklyn.

After discovering their mutual obsession with sheet pans, they began swapping ideas for pushing the boundaries of their favorite tool via phone calls and Zoom. A cookbook took shape.

I’ve had great success with a couple of their innovations for everyday dinners: Branzino with Asparagus and Scallions and Roasted Greek-ish Salad with Halloumi. Quick Sheet Pan Chili or Crispy Ramen with

Cabbage and Bacon may be next.

Other chapters cover breakfast and brunch (Oven Ratatouille with Eggs, Puff Pastry Danishes); appetizers and small bites (Chaat Masala“Nachos,”GingerLemongrass Meatballs); sweet treats (Blackberry-Lemon Clafoutis, Peanut Butter-Chocolate Crispy Rice Treats); and a few salads and simple sides for rounding out the meal.

Some recipes are more involved than others. But all make the case for why sheet pans will never become obsolete: “It gets the job done, it acquires patina through years of use, and it just keeps living on.”