A more healthful way to make fish sticks

Baking instead of frying can net a better version of childhood favorite.

I have the happiest memories of eating fish sticks as a child. They were one of the few frozen prepared foods my parents would buy, and they felt like a special occasion. I loved that I could eat them with my fingers, dunking them in ketchup like french fries.

Hungry for that carefree eating experience, I recently considered a package of frozen fish sticks at the grocery store. I have to admit, I was pleasantly surprised at the simplicity of their ingredients — just fish, oil and breadcrumbs. But knowing how easy they are to whip up, how much fresher tasting and more flavorful they can be when homemade, and how I prefer them baked rather than fried, I decided to pick up the ingredients to make my own.

Any firm white fish makes good fish sticks, so I went for the best-looking, most economical fillets at the store. That turned out to be haddock on this particular visit, but cod, scrod, pollock, tilapia or halibut would all work well.

My trick for achieving a beautifully browned, crunchy coating without risking overcooking the fish is to toast the breadcrumbs first. So, I tossed some panko with olive oil, spread it evenly on a sheet pan and popped it in the oven for a few minutes until it took on a nice, golden-brown color. To layer in more flavor, I seasoned those breadcrumbs with paprika, garlic, salt and pepper, and beat a bit of Dijon mustard into a couple of eggs.

Then I got to dipping — first in some flour, then the egg mixture and, finally, the seasoned breadcrumbs. The batons of coated fish went back on the same sheet pan and into the oven.

While the fish baked, I whipped up a quick, better-for-you tartar sauce by stirring yogurt and a little mayonnaise with chopped sour pickle and scallion. You could swap in capers for the pickle, and chives or onion for the scallion if you’d like.

After 10 minutes the fish came out with a crunchy exterior and the most tender, flaky interior. Dipped in the creamy, tangy tartar sauce, they hit the spot just as I had hoped.

Pancakes are often considered a splurge that veers away from healthy breakfast goals — a reputation that isn’t entirely unwarranted. Since many batters are made primarily with white flour, sugar and butter, they’re literally a type of cake cooked in a pan — fine to eat now and then, but not every day.

On the flip side, pancakes can also be a tender, fulfilling treat that tracks perfectly with the most nourishing breakfast choices. They are easy vehicles for whole grains, nuts, seeds, fruit and yogurt, and they can be made deliciously with healthy oil and minimal sweetener. There is a multitude of good-for-you, delicious pancake possibilities. I know, because I have probably made 101 varieties of them over the years. My ideal pancake delivers the tenderness of cake, but with grounding texture and flavor that goes beyond simply sweet.

This recipe brings all that — and more.

Made with an extra-soft variety of whole-wheat flour — either wholewheat pastry or white whole-wheat — these lemon flapjacks turn out light and tender. (A combination of equal parts regular whole-wheat flour and all-purpose also works, as would a gluten-free cup-for-cup mix.)

The wheat flour gets whisked with some almond flour, which adds body, protein, healthy fat and minerals. Egg and yogurt make the base of the liquid ingredients, providing plenty of nutrient-rich protein. Heart-healthy oil keeps the crumb soft and rich-tasting, and a burst of lemon from the fruit’s juice and zest, balanced with vanilla extract and a touch of maple syrup, gives them a bright punch of flavor. Poppy seeds bring it home with a pop of texture and a festive look.

Served dusted with confectioners’ sugar, these pancakes feel like a special occasion, but they are so healthful and simple to make, they could rightly be enjoyed any time of year.