TWO LEGENDS IN THE CALIFORNIA SPARKLING WINE STORY
For me, this year will forever be known as
“That 2020.” Between the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic and the California wildfires, it has been a very difficult year for everyone. With the holiday season upon us, I suggest a California sparkling wine toast for those we love, those we remember, front-line firefighters, health care workers and, importantly, ourselves.
Although only wines made in the Champagne region of France can be called such, most California sparkling wines are made in the méthode champenoise (traditional Champagne method). Of the nine mandated steps, most notable are a lengthy second fermentation in the bottle and dosage, the addition of small amounts of a sugar/wine mixture before corking.
The second fermentation can typically take two to five years, but some producers lengthen aging for a decade or more before removing the temporary wax plug. These special wines are identified as late-disgorged.
Roederer Estate and Schramsberg source fruit from different regions and vary in their approach, but both are icons in the production of California sparkling wine. The Davies family has owned Schramsberg for 55 years. Based in the Napa Valley, they source grapes from other select vineyards in Mendocino County, the Anderson Valley, Sonoma, Napa and the Carneros.
In contrast, Roederer Estate, founded in the Anderson Valley in 1982, owns 620 acres of estate vineyards that gives them more control in farming the fruit. Founder Jean-Claude Rouzaud was attracted to ocean air, the soil and its distance from the expensive land in the Napa Valley.
The Roederer Estate Brut Rosé NV ($ 35) is a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. Only the cuvee (first pressing) is used in this non-vintage release that has been highly reviewed by top periodicals.
The Schramsburg Blanc de Blanc ($41) has some history. Not only was it the first chardonnay-based sparkling wine produced in the U.S., but it achieved international recognition when President Richard Nixon served it during the 1972 “Toast for Peace” in China.
Beginning in 1989, L'Ermitage has been Roederer Estate's exceptional “tête de cuvée” that is only made in good years with select grapes. The Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Brut 2013 ($ 55) is a chardonnay (52 percent) and pinot noir (48 percent) blend with the addition of four percent reserved, barrel-aged 2011 wine in dosage.
J. Schram wines, named for the founder, exhibits Schramsberg's commitment to excellence. Rich baked fruit aromas and a lush mouthfeel in the 2011 J. Schram ($130)are evidence of that.
Recently, we were fortunate to taste two late-disgorged wines with little to zero availability. The Roederer Estate L'Ermitage
Brut 2004 ($120) was disgorged this past January after 15 years aging on lees and the J. Schram 1999 ($185) in 2015 after 16 years. Both are sparkling wines of exceptionally rich texture and complex flavors, a testimony to the process.
I look to the sustained quality of both Roederer Estate and Schramsberg when selecting a “bubbly” for my toast.
Lyle W. Norton is a wine enthusiast and blogger who has written a wine column for 20 years. He incorporates wine into his passion to travel and tries to bring his readers along on the journey. Visit his blog at lifebylyle.com.