Bring a big appetite to Driftwood
Our first thought when the biggest pretzel we’ve ever seen arrived at our table: Well, there’s a nuclear power plant in town.
But radiation has nothing to do with it. Big is normal at Driftwood Publick House & Oysteria, home to the Philly stuffed pretzel ($15), freshbaked and stuffed with tender beer-braised steak, caramelized onion, and gooey American cheese, served with a spicy dipping sauce.
Though the restaurant has been open only a little over two years, that monster pretzel is already a local culinary legend, said owner Matthew Hennessy.
“To be honest, we could probably close and reopen as a pretzel house,” he said with a laugh.
For non-carnivores, there’s the seasonal veg pretzel ($15) with wild mushrooms, asparagus, zucchini, tomatoes, corn and mozzarella, served with roasted red pepper coulis. They also run daily specials, such as the “egg roll” pretzel ($15) with pork, snow peas, and cabbage.
Hennessy works with chef Robert Finnemore, who has cooked all over the Cape, to create a small but diverse menu that includes chicken and waffles ($19), oyster po’ boy ($14), and duck confit sweet-potato skins ($12).
Driftwood is a small, dark place that seats 50. With its dark maroon walls and local art, beer plaques on high shelves, and church-pew seating along the walls, it smacks of a European bistro.
That includes “the snug,” a tiny alcove across from the bar that is the most romantic spot in the place, with a large wall mural of a mischievous monk drinking – what else? – beer.
In addition to the giant pretzel, the appetizer list includes native grilled oysters ($12.50), four good-sized ones topped with a hot and spicy lime, cilantro, and Serrano pepper butter, a unique treatment of a local shellfish.
We also opted for another signature appie, the Driftwood fries ($6), a whopping parchment-paper cone of hand-cut ribbon fries with red onion, zucchini, and shaved parmesan, crunchy, salty and addictive. They weren’t always this big, said our capable server, Shannon— they used to be bigger. The restaurant had to shrink the portion when people just couldn’t finish all the fries, she said.
Staying with the signature-dish mood, we also went with the Driftwood burger ($12), which is so juicy that the fluid will run down your arm if you’re not careful. This eight-ounce Angus beauty is topped with aged cheddar, house-cured bacon, beer-braised onions, and house-made barbecue sauce, and served with a giant portion of crispy beer-battered onion rings.
We also tried the bourbon-glazed salmon ($20), served with three jumbo shrimp over jasmine rice and grilled asparagus. The pan-seared salmon was perfectly flaky and moist, the poached shrimp atop it a lovely complement.
Chances are you won’t have room for dessert, so they keep those options small. But if it’s on the menu, try the “beeramisu,” a twist on tiramisu. It is infused with whatever appropriate beer is on hand, Hennessy said, be it a coffee porter, chocolate stout, or the like.
“We specifically carry craft and import [beer] only, nothing mass-produced,” he said. “When we first opened, people said if we didn’t have Bud, we’d never make it. We stuck to our guns and have been successful.”
According to Hennessy, “We have about 20 on draught, and around 30 to 40 in cans and bottles. We get specialties and brew reserves, sometimes just three or four cases, and when it’s gone, it’s gone.”
The offerings include draughts such as the Belgian Golden Strong Ale ($8.50) from Allagash Brewing in Maine; Mayflower Golden Ale ($4) from Mayflower Brewing in Plymouth; and Young’s Double Chocolate Stout ($6.25) from Wells and Young in England.
Some of it gets pricey: The Sebago Barleywine, at a hefty 12.5 percent alcohol-by-volume, will set you back $22 for 26 ounces.
Driftwood also has a decent wine list, including Federalist chardonnay ($10 a glass), and offers special cocktails like the three-berry margarita ($9).
Because it sounded so weird, we tried the Drifty Oyster ($7), a raw oyster swimming in a highball glass with a shot of Crater Lake pepper vodka, lemon juice, cracked pepper, and Tabasco sauce. If you get it, resist the urge to slug it down. Just sip, enjoy and feel the juicy, peppery heat work its way down your throat, followed by that sweet oyster.
If it’s music you enjoy, Driftwood has a packed lineup of entertainment, including such acts as The Sibs Acoustic Duo and the Jackson Wetherbee Band. If you like peace and quiet with your food, go before those maroon walls echo with live music later in the evening.
But no matter when you go, starve yourself first. With food like those mutant pretzels, you’re going to need the space.