Pinotxo-Style Squid and White Beans
Serves 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a main course
I got lucky last January, engineering my birthday breakfast in Barcelona. With my flight back to Boston only a couple of hours away, I hiked one last time to the Boqueria, the city's bustling central market, and more specifically to Pinotxo, one of the more legendary tapas stalls in that food-obsessed city. Securing a rare spot at the counter, even at 9 a.m., I ordered a celebratory glass of cava along with a stream of tapas. My favorite, calamari with white beans, is at once spectacularly tasty and comically easy to make. It's the definition of oceanic simplicity: good olive oil, cut-up squid, which for New Englanders is locally caught, super fresh, and not overfished, along with garlic, parsley, and a can of white beans. For a tangy final touch, drizzle the squid lightly with a balsamic vinegar reduction. Sadly, my visit to this wonderful place won't happen again. To my shock, I got word that Pinotxo was shuttered a week later. Then its wonderful impresario, Joan Bayen, died in April after 81 years working the bar. Eighty-one years! Many in the city and around the world were in a state of mourning. Thankfully both his and Pinotxo's spirit can live on in this elemental dish.
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 pound fresh squid, bodies cut into ¾-inch rings, tentacles cut lengthwise into halves or thirds
4 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
3 cloves garlic, cut into slivers
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
1 can (about 15 ounces) white beans, such as cannellini or Great Northern, with their liquid Olive oil (for sprinkling)
1. In a small saucepan, bring the balsamic vinegar to a boil. Turn off the heat (you'll simmer it later).
2. In a bowl toss the cut-up squid with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the salt.
3. Heat a large cast-iron skillet or another heavy-based skillet over medium-high heat until it is hot. Use tongs to spread the squid in an even layer in the skillet. Cook without moving for 2 minutes. The squid will start to turn opaque. Use the tongs to move the squid around the pan and sear for 1 more minute.
4. Meanwhile, return the vinegar to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, or until it is the consistency of syrup and a thin layer in the saucepan. Watch it carefully because it goes from syrup to burnt in seconds.
5. Turn the heat under the skillet of squid to low. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, garlic, and parsley. Cook, stirring often, for 1 minute.
6. Add the beans with their liquid. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cook for 1 minute, or until the beans are hot and all the squid is opaque. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if you like.
7. Ladle the beans and squid into shallow bowls. Sprinkle with olive oil and add a dab of the balsamic vinegar.