Naan (Flatbreads)

Makes 6

Naan, the flatbread staple in South Asia, has its origins in ancient Persia. Lately, it's gained popularity in the West with some commercial bakeries making it for supermarket distribution. But there is nothing like the fresh, homemade version, with its soft, puffy, chewy texture and mild taste, which pairs well with soups, stews, and curries. The dough is made with yeast, water, a little sugar, and salt and requires only five minutes of kneading in the bowl and about one hour to rise. Traditionally naan is made in a conical wood-fired tandoor oven, but here the dough, flattened into teardropshaped pieces, is cooked in a hot cast-iron skillet, where they blister and char unevenly into the familiar flatbreads. Regulate the heat under the skillet to keep the naan from cooking too fast and burning. If it does, slide the pan off the burner for a few seconds, lower the heat, and return the pan to the burner. You can start a batch of naan in the late afternoon and have it ready for supper. Leftovers, if there are any, are excellent for breakfast.

1 cup warm water

1 tablespoon sugar

1½ teaspoons instant yeast (not rapid

rise) or active dry yeast

2½ cups bread flour or all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons unsalted butter or ghee,

melted

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1. In a small bowl, stir together the warm water, sugar, and yeast. Set aside to rest for 10 minutes, or until the mixture looks foamy. (Even if you're using instant yeast, this is the best way to incorporate it into the dough in this recipe.)

2. In a bowl large to hold all the ingredients, mix the flour and the salt until blended. Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast mixture and 1 tablespoon of melted butter or ghee. Using a firm rubber spatula or wooden spoon, mix until most of the flour has been incorporated and the dough looks shaggy. Hold the bowl with one hand and place the other hand under the dough. Stretch and fold the dough toward the opposite side of the bowl. Rotate the bowl 1/4 turn and repeat. Continue to rotate the bowl, stretching and folding it for a total of about 8 times, or until the dough comes together in a cohesive ball. If it's very sticky,

SALLY PASLEY VARGAS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE dip your fingers in a little vegetable oil.

3. Holding the bowl with one hand, place the other hand under the dough. Stretch and fold the dough toward the opposite side of the bowl. Give the bowl a ¼ turn. Repeat the stretch and fold. Continue to rotate the bowl, stretching and folding, for a total of 8 times, or until the dough comes together in a cohesive ball. If it's very sticky, dip your fingers in a little vegetable oil.

4. Sprinkle the vegetable oil over the dough and turn to coat it all over. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Set it in a warm place to rise for 1 to 1½ hours, or until doubled in size.

5. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter. Use a knife or pizza cutter to divide it into 6 equal pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time, stretch the outer edge of each piece and tuck it under to form a ball. Place the balls, smooth sides up, on the counter. Cover with plastic wrap or a clean lightweight dish towel, and let them rest for 10 minutes.

6. On a lightly floured counter, roll each piece into a teardrop shape that is about 7by-5-inches in size. If the dough springs back and is difficult to roll, let it rest for a few minutes and start rolling again.

7. Set a 10-inch cast-iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When it is hot (a drop of water should sizzle when sprinkled into the pan), turn on your stove fan.

8. Spritz or sprinkle one side of a piece of dough lightly with water. Place it in the hot pan, wet side down. Cook for 45 to 60 seconds, or until the dough forms bubbles and the edges start to dry. Use tongs to turn the dough, cover the pan with a lid, and cook for 30 seconds more. The dough should be soft and charred in places. You may have to keep adjusting the heat or slide the pan on and off the burner to keep the pan hot enough to cook the naan, but not so hot that it smokes and burns.

9. Wrap the cooked naan in a clean kitchen towel to keep warm. Cook the remaining dough in the same way. Brush with melted butter, if you like. Serve warm.