The Boston Globe

Vermatzah for Passover: an eco-kosher alternativ­e

- ANN TRIEGER KURLAND

‘From farm to seder table” is Naga Bakehoupse’s slogan for a locally grown Passover. Doug Freilich and Julie Sperling, the owners of the Middletown Springs, Vt., bakery, craft matzah, the unleavened bread integral during the eight days of Passover. This year, the Jewish holiday begins on the evening of April 22. Each irregular round, which they’ve named Vermatzah, is handcrafte­d using a blend of freshly milled organic Vermont wheat and the ancient grain emmer, then baked in small batches within a wood-fired oven, reminiscen­t of ancient practices. Now, everything is done in-house since Naga has a new stone-ground gristmill that grinds the grains. The bakery typically produces artisan loaves and stuffed savory and sweet breads, but the spotlight shifts to their artisan matzah from February through April. “This year, we are celebratin­g 16 years of producing Vermatzah with over 115,200 pieces of Vermatzah sold, each made by hand,” Sperling says. The matzah at Naga is not certified kosher or crafted under rabbinical oversight. Instead, it adheres to the principles of eco-kosher, which means it’s made with a commitment to environmen­tally and socially responsibl­e practices. The rustic, crispy circles are full of flavor — a testament to its preparatio­n over an open flame ($21.95-$24.95 for a box of six). This year Vermatzah is available only in stores, such as City Feed and Supply, 672 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-5241700; Cambridge Naturals, 23 White St., Cambridge, 617492-4452; Debra’s Natural Gourmet, 98 Commonweal­th Ave., West Concord, 978-371-7573. For stores outside of the Boston area and for more informatio­n, visit vermatzah.com.

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