Lemon Curd
Makes about 2 cups
In “The Irish Bakery,” author Cherie Denham writes, “As a child, I used to make lemon curd with duck eggs collected from a nest in an old tractor tyre.” Now in Hampshire, England, where she lives, she uses eggs from her own hens. She advises using the best eggs you can find because you’re looking for a beautiful yellow color. Spread lemon curd wherever jam might go: on buttered toast or in thumbprint cookies. Denham has an unusual method. She uses whole eggs and dismisses a double boiler in favor of putting the eggs, lemon rind and juice, butter, and sugar into a saucepan directly over heat until the butter melts, the sugar dissolves, and the mixture thickens. “Ensure it’s a gentle heat, otherwise it will curdle, giving you sweet scrambled eggs,” she writes. “Stir constantly and watch it like a hawk. Don’t allow the curd to boil either.” When it coats the back of a spoon (one that has never touched tomato sauces or other savory mixtures), it’s ready and will thicken on standing. It works like a charm and isn’t too sweet but delightfully lemony.
Grated rind and juice of 3 large unwaxed lemons
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut up ½ cup sugar
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1. Have on hand 2 jars (each 1-cup capacity), or the equivalent. Sterilize the jars and lids in boiling water. Dry them in a 275-degree oven for 5 minutes (don’t use a kitchen towel or you may introduce bacteria). You also need a sterilized funnel for the jars, and a strainer set over a bowl (also sterilized).
2. In a heavy-based saucepan, combine the lemon rind and juice, butter, sugar, and eggs. With a wooden spoon or heatproof rubber spatula, stir gently over medium-low heat until the mixture thickens. Do not let the mixture boil or it will curdle. It is thick enough when it coats the spoon or spatula and when you draw your finger along it, a clear mark stays.
3. Remove from the heat and immediately pour into the strainer to remove the lemon rind and bits of egg. Use the spoon or spatula to gently ease the liquid through the strainer, but do not press it hard.
4. Divide the mixture among the jars, using the funnel. Screw on the lids and leave to cool. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.