The Capital

Restaurant- worthy brunch

Ring in the new year with recipes that re- create the weekend meal’s leisurely magic

- JeanMarie Brownson

Brunch. The dine- in restaurant occasion Imiss most during this pandemic.

I’m not really thinking of those all- you- can- eat grand buffets ( although that sounds decadently delightful). Rather, those leisurely outings with good friends that involvewai­tstaff, luxurious food and a way- early- for- me cocktail or two. Astrollmig­ht followto aid digestion and keep the conversati­on flowing, before the need to nap pullsmeto the couch.

These days, working at home means the couch often doubles as desk. The cocktail hour creeps into consciousn­ess at dusk. The snack drawer beckons all day.

This January, I declare time to cook our own restaurant- worthy brunch dishes. Eggs covered in a creamy sauce, bacon- y potatoes, seed and nut pancakes sweetened with jam. Itmakes no matter to the cook when you enjoy them— Sundaymorn­ing, Tuesday evening or Friday lunch.

I never have enough pancake recipes. Whole grain, buttermilk, potato, lemon ricotta— we love themall in our family. My pet peeve is the metallic taste of excess leavening found in boxed mixes and some recipes, so I nearly alwaysmake­my owndry mix. Ingredient­s on hand inspire the use of various flours, seeds, nut and fruit additions.

Alove of muesli cereal translated into the version here, chock- full of oats, almonds and dried currants.

I stock bags of frozen cranberrie­s for this speedy cranberry, fig and ginger jam. Make a double batch and package in small refrigerat­or containers to gift to your former brunch buddies with the dry pancake mix and instructio­ns for cooking.

Bacon and potatoes are amatch made in heaven — especially when indulging in breakfast- for- dinner. The hash that follows can be served in individual skillets topped with an egg — reminiscen­t of pancake house skillet meals.

Likemany, I struggle to poach eggs so they look beautiful and stay soft- set.

The best technique I’ve found is simply to keep the barely simmering pan of water swirling when you add the egg. Themovemen­t of thewater helps coat the yolk with the white. Once done, after about 3minutes, use a slotted spoon to transfer the egg to a bowl of lukewarmwa­ter.

The eggs hold nicely in this manner while you reheat the potato mixture to piping hot. Top everything with a lemony, mayonnaise- based sauce— easier than making hollandais­e.

I always enlist help while cooking brunch— someone to act as the barista and bartender while I concentrat­e on the stove. Serve mimosas with the pancakes and bloody marys with the bacon potato skillet.

Fortified, we reminisce and marvel at the skills of the staff at our favorite brunch spots. Let’s support them in these difficult times by ordering takeout meals, tipping generously and sending donations. Newmemorie­s are on the horizon.

 ?? ABELURIBE/ CHICAGOTRI­BUNEPHOTOS; SHANNONKIN­SELLA/ FOODSTYLIN­G ?? Alove ofmuesli cereal inspires these cinnamonmu­esli pancakes withhomema­decranberr­y, fig and ginger jam.
ABELURIBE/ CHICAGOTRI­BUNEPHOTOS; SHANNONKIN­SELLA/ FOODSTYLIN­G Alove ofmuesli cereal inspires these cinnamonmu­esli pancakes withhomema­decranberr­y, fig and ginger jam.
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