The time is now to splurge on a luxury wine

We realize not everyone can afford to buy wine costing well more than $50 a bottle. Yet at this time of the year — when we search for something special to give to a host, gift to a friend who has everything or just enjoy with someone special for an intimate dinner — we justify spending more.

A gift of wine should always be appreciated no matter its cost. Attending a large open house doesn’t call for an expensive bottle that won’t be recognized by a harried host the next day.

But if you’re invited to a lavish party of eight guests or less, maybe a premium wine would be appreciated, especially if you are asked to bring a wine to be shared.

Or, if your spouse is making leg of lamb, lobster thermidor or prime rib, why not complement the dinner with a wine equally luxurious? You can justify it because a good bottle of inexpensive wine would cost more than $50 at a restaurant that generally marks up wine 400%.

Next week we’ll have several wines under $50 that would make nice gifts, but this week we’re focused on premium wines for those who can afford them.

What drives the cost of a premium wine? Let’s start with the grapes. Inexpensive wines often come from a broad region — the state of California or several vineyards in several appellations, for instance.

Expensive wines, on the other hand, not only come from a single vineyard but from a specific block of grapes. The yield is low and only the perfectly ripened grapes are used.

Once the grapes reach the winery, they are given even more care. Depending on the grape variety, the winemaker could induce malolatic fermentation, pump overs and gentle pressing to extract the best attributes from the grapes.

But perhaps the most significant contributing factor is the barrel. French barrels, which are used for fermentation and aging, can cost more than $3,000 each.

Of course, market demand also drives prices. A wine that is tightly allocated will cost more because consumers are willing to pay steep prices

to own it.

Here are several Napa Valley luxury wines we have enjoyed:

J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($310).

This is a monster of a wine that fits nicely into the upper-tier of special wines making Napa Valley famous. It’s as good as anything in this price category, here or abroad.

Blended with 13% petit verdot, it has substantial complexity and firmness that portends well into the future. For those worried about the vintage, much of the harvest was done before the Glass fire and any tainted grapes were discarded. Black fruit flavors with hints of herbs and bitter chocolate.

Said winemaker Jeff Cole, “The J.O. Cabernet Sauvignon stands as the epitome of excellence, featuring the most distinguished lots from our Estate. Its pricing is a reflection not solely of our location in Rutherford and exacting farming methods but also encompasses the laborious winemaking process, selection of premium cooperages, and meticulous cellaring.

“These elements integrate to form a standard of quality that naturally warrants a premium, embodying our unwavering commitment to crafting wines of unparalleled distinction.”

Baldacci Family Vineyards The Thomas Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2018 ($1,000 for a three-bottle set).

This is the inaugural edition of this special cabernet sauvignon from grapes grown in the estate’s Stags Leap District and Diamond Mountain District — two areas known for their concentrated, rich wines.

Named in honor of winemaker Michael Baldacci’s father, it is a profound wine aged for 22 months in all new French oak barriques designed with a proprietary oak and toast profile. We found a lot to love in this just-released limited edition, although it comes with a hefty price tag. Blackberry, blueberry and black currant notes with richness and length.

Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount 2018 ($90).

Tom Gamble didn’t make a Paramount blend of Bordeaux grapes in 2020, but the 2017 and 2018 vintages are still being poured in the tasting room. We like the 2018 — a superb vintage — for its depth and easy drinkability. Huge floral aromas with plum and cherry flavors, good spice and soft mouthfeel.

Turnbull Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($60).

Turnbull has a terrific reserve wine from Oakville for twice the money, but this one is a deal in the ultra-premium class. Broad aromas of cedar, fresh and bright red fruit and cocoa powder followed by lively cherry and currant fruit flavors.

Goosecross State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($90).

Christi and Dave Ficeli have breathed new life into this Napa Valley winery since they acquired it in 2012. This cabernet — blended with a bit of petit verdot — excels in concentration and texture. Blackberry and red currant notes abound with hints of mocha, vanilla and cedar.

Newton Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($210).

Newton makes a series of spectacular cabernet sauvignons that show off the best Napa Valley has to offer. This one from Yountville exhibits the more brambly character of the grape variety, making it rustic and wild. Cassis, red currant and black cherry dominate the palate with a hint of thyme and coffee. Don’t let the current appeal deceive you — it is good for cellar aging, too.

Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($95).

We’ve enjoyed this wine over several vintages and continue to be amazed by its depth and clarity. The Chappellets pioneered high-elevation cabernet sauvignon on Pritchard Hill, arguably the best mountain slope for grapes in Napa Valley.

With all of the noble Bordeaux grape varieties to draw from its 48 blocks, it can create a terrific wine year after year. Intense black cherry, rosemary and black currant aromas followed by dark berry flavors and hints of mocha and anise.

Larkmead Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($125).

About 17% merlot and 1% cabernet franc makes up the blend to this rounded, luscious wine with easy tannins and balanced acidity. Ripe and juicy blackberry and plum notes with floral and spice aromas. One of the best wines we’ve tasted from this producer.

Beaulieu Vineyard Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($85).

Fifteen percent of malbec and petit verdot is blended into this smooth cabernet sauvignon from the esteemed Rutherford region. Concentrated blackberry and cassis notes with hints of forest-floor and chocolate.

Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr can be reached at marq1948@gmail.com.