Trentodoc sparkling wine

Discussing sparkling wine with wine lovers most consumers can reel off champagne, cava, prosecco and a variety of domestic producers. If you mention Trentodoc you’re likely to garner a blank stare.

Given the small production and paucity of selections available in the U.S., this sparkling wine producer in the northeastern region of Italy has earned its reputation for obscurity. Before World War I this mountainous region was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After the war, Italy achieved dominion over the area.

Only white and rosé sparkling wine are produced using this appellation in the region. Sparkling wine is produced from the same grapes used to make French Champagne and uses the same production process. The result is remarkably high-quality sparkling wine that in some cases compares favorably with the French version. Only about 2,800 acres produce grapes for Trentodoc champagne and remarkably 80% of their production is consumed in Italy.

We recently tasted three rosés from the region to familiarize our palates with this sparkling wine. Our two favorites were the 2016 Rotari Trentodoc Rosé ($25) which is 75% pinot noir and 15% chardonnay. The sparkler presented a yeasty bready nose with strawberry and cherry flavors. A bright very complete wine.

Next was the Ferrari Trentodoc Brut Rosé N/V ($35-40). Made from 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. Again, the appealing yeasty nose with creamy berry notes. A very nice sparkler that is easy to drink.

We found the Montfort Trentodoc Rosé Brut N/V ($30-40) a bit too tart for our taste. The wine presented citrus and cherry notes and was made from a 50⁄50 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay.

Wine picks

Alois Lageder Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio 2018 ($16). Fresh and crisp with floral aromas and mango, citrus flavors.

Riff Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC 2022 ($12).

From the Veneto region, this crisp and distinctive pinot grigio is a good buy. Light-bodied and refreshing, it is a good quaffing wine or one to serve with simple fare.

Cormorant Cellars Grenache/Marsanne 2021 ($27).

New to us, Cormorant is making several impressive wines in Dry Creek Valley and Monterey. Winemaker Charlie Gilmore likes to make wine in an old-world style: no pesticides or fertilizers in the vineyard, no fining or filtering, few additional sulfites. The result, as evident in this blend, is purity of fruit, fresh acidity and bright flavors. The blend showed green apple and citrus notes.