Baking ‘pert’ biscuits
My grandparents were born in the 19th century — that is, before 1900. They preserved habits, sayings, practices. They continued to live the same way as their grandparents.
My grandfathers used identical farm equipment as their grandfathers. Woodburning stoves were indistinguishable from those of their grandmothers, when they had one.
Old sayings hung on through generations. My maternal grandfather’s word for “excellent” was “pert.” His exclamation of surprise was “faith.” That Irish stuff again.
Things changed little. One constant was biscuits. Farm women cooked biscuits three times a day.
My maternal grandmother baked pies and cakes but couldn’t bake a biscuit. Her biscuits were small, rock hard and didn’t rise.
When an unexpected guest appeared she magically produced her “emergency pie.” We still have the recipe but it seemed she made it faster.
If something emerged perfectly from the oven she could be heard whispering, “That’s a good girl.” We didn’t know if she was talking about the stove, herself, or the pie. I asked. She said it was just something her mother always said.
Mom inherited her mother’s snuff can. They didn’t dip but used a gifted one as a biscuit cutter.
She over-handled her dough. She mixed and rolled the dough, cut biscuits with the snuff can and cooked them in a slow oven, about 350 degrees.
The Phillips side of my family was full of master biscuit-makers.
With the advantage of our own grist mill we could custom-grind wheat into any texture of flour. My grandfather and uncle operated Phillips Mill on Dog River.
Their biscuits were made with buttermilk and lard, han
dled only as necessary and hand-formed. The stove was fired with split pine or corn cobs for a hot oven.
I’ve only seen one other woman make similar biscuits and cannot duplicate them, but it has not been for lack of trying.
I’ve used self-rising and plain flour with baking powder and salt. I rarely have buttermilk but am not above using spoiled milk or sweet milk with some vinegar. I just can’t do it. My biscuits are as good as average but they are not what I’m looking for.
As of this writing I’m using vegetable shortening and a 450-degree oven. Maybe I should up the temperature.
The Kansas Woman will eat them and is not critical but says I am, too much so. She says it’s a man thing.
Maybe, but I want to be able to make a biscuit. A real Phillips biscuit.
A “pert” biscuit, a good girl.
Joe Phillips writes his “Dear me” columns for several small newspapers. He has many connections to Walker County, including his grandfather, former superintendent Waymond Morgan. He can be reached at joenphillips@hotmail.com.