Hearty food provides base for St. Patrick’s festivities
For those about to “shamrock,” I salute you. Yes, St. Patrick’s Day is nearly upon us. To honor the many hardy souls planning to celebrate that “alco-holiday” until they’re green in the face, I have two recommendations:
Leave the driving to someone sober.
Prime your Guinness-hole with huge plates of rib-sticking, occasion-appropriate, good-tasting Irish food.
Cabs and driver apps will resolve that first concern. For the latter matter, go to Fado Irish Pub.
This entails heading to Easton Town Center and entering a dark, rambling establishment brimming with wood and the kind of nooks and crannies and odd-angled spaces associated with pubs in Ireland. Fado is also packed with old farmhouse implements, vintage kitchen knickknacks and antiquestore goods and furniture that look like they’ve been summoned from an early 20th-century book penned by the great Irish writer James Joyce.
Sure, this “ye olde quaint tavern” decor is touristy, but in an amusing and almost convincing way. Besides, the 21st century streams in through numerous flat-screen TVs beaming local sports and European soccer matches — which are very popular here, often attracting an exuberant crew of English Premier League “footy” fans during Saturday brunch hours.
Whether you show up then or not, Fado’s traditional Irish breakfast ($14) is a great way to go. Served all day every day, it’s an immense and delicious platter of two eggs, seared mushrooms, broiled tomatoes, brawny beer-flavored brown bread and a two-of-each array of morning meats: hefty links of juicy, searedyet-tender banger-style sausages; rashers (think salty, serious ham); “white pudding” (pork-andoatmeal sausage); plus slightly spicy, aromatic “black pudding” (pork, oatmeal and blood sausage)
that will be surprisingly accessible — even delectable — to many American palates.
Pairing this Irish breakfast with a Fado Irish coffee ($7.75) is an inspired, if extremely indulgent, delight. Fado serves the mood-altering beverage with a theatrical tableside presentation: a generous splash of Tullamore D.E.W. Irish whiskey is poured into strong java and garnished with spooned-on real
whipped cream and cinnamon sprinkles that mimic the swirls in the Fado logo.
Instead — or on the side — you could sip what Joyce called “the wine of the country”: correctly poured Guinness stout ($6.50). Actually, several varieties of Guinness appear on the large drink menu that includes Guinness cocktails, whiskey flights ($12 to $35) and abundant other beers.
Beer is the best companion for Fado’s terrific corned beef and potato dumplings ($16). Salty
house-roasted meat, shaved Parmesan, sauteed kale and grape tomatoes top plenty of excellent house-made dumplings that resemble tender gnocchi. A bright wine-butter sauce, nutmeg and herbs contribute crisp, rich and fragrant accents to the attractive dish.
The always-available lunch portion of fish and chips ($12) comprises one piece of “wild-caught” cod, fresh and vinegarforward coleslaw plus plenty of crisp, flour-dusted potato wedges. Had the flaky,
good-tasting fish been less oily, it would’ve been a bigger hit.
Served with beer bread and a perky kale, barley and pickledonion salad (which is hard to eat from its little jar), Fado’s whopping version of shepherd’s pie ($15) is a loose ground-beef blend that tastes like beef stew capped with whipped potatoes. The comforting combo is broiled and presented in a cast-iron pan. Although light on the advertised vegetables, it’s a winner.
Similarly, if you receive two slider-style Toasties ($6 each; one a hotchicken riff, another with ham, cheese and mango chutney), that, like mine, aren’t perfect — ingredients were missing — they’ll still be pleasant defenses against boozy overindulgence.
If you nonetheless mistakenly have a few too many, possibly due to any St. Patty’s festivities, take solace from that immense genius Joyce, who wrote: “Errors are the portals to discovery.” architect
How many times a week do you eat out?
I’d say on average probably five, most often for dinner, sometimes for brunch on the weekends.
What's your favorite brunch spot?
My favorite is Knotty Pine Brewing in Grandview (Heights, 1765 W. 3rd Ave.). We just really like the atmosphere. They’ve got a brisket and eggs, which is excellent. The other thing that’s really good is a chorizo hash. They have a breakfast pizza that’s pretty nice and really solid mimosas. They have a cherry-wood smoked porter that’s my favorite beer ever.
How about your go-to restaurants for dinner?
Probably my next favorite would be On the Border, up in Easton (4175 Morse Crossing). They have all-around really great food and really great service. The servers are fun; they joke around with you. They’ve got really solid drinks. They have brisket tacos there that are amazing (and) guacamole they make right in front of you. When we order two guacs, they make it on opposite sides of the table and turn it into a competition and talk smack.
What's the best place for a cheap meal?
There’s a place by me in Dublin, Pita Int. (6720 Perimeter Loop Road). It’s a Mediterranean place that’s similar to Chipotle. They’ve got shawarma and hummus. It’s a great spot for lunch. It’s pretty small and probably not well known, but they do a great job there.