Short North mainstay provides new options

The Rossi has been a mainstay of the Short North for years, known as a casual but classy spot for cocktails, New York-style pizzas and burgers. The arrival last fall of chef Matthew Heaggans to lead the kitchen has shored up the most-popular items while breathing new life into the menu, including the addition of weekend brunch.

The brunch menu features about 10 items plus a variety of sides and drinks. The restaurant features a full bar with cocktails and a good selection of beer.

The French toast ($13) arrives as three thick, triangular slices with sides of bacon, maple syrup and a strong red-wine compote. The toast was a little dry on the outside but custardy inside, and syrup and compote helped complete the dish.

The breakfast sandwich ($10) is simply constructed but large and dense. Given the choice of meats, I opted for the house-made pork sausage, which was well seasoned and came as a surprisingly large patty — more like a full-sized burger (no complaints here). It’s topped with a soft but sturdy slab of souffleed eggs, smoked cheddar, pickled chilies

and a lemon basil aioli between brioche buns.

The brunch pizza ($14) was a highlight, with a thin, New Yorkstyle crust topped with shaved ham, shredded Brussels sprouts and a fried egg in the middle. The egg yolk was soft. The only misfire was the Brussels sprouts, which were a little too salty. The pizza is cut into six slices and is easily shared.

The baked eggs ($9) are served in a bowl with a thick tomato sauce and accompanied by brioche toast and a simple salad. The dish is rich and hearty; one of our diners enjoyed mixing the eggs and tomatoes with a side of grits.

The Rossi is well known for its burger ($13), which is available at brunch. A sizable patty is layered with the usual suspects of cheese, lettuce, onion, tomato, pickles and mayonnaise.