Pub turns Irish food into fine dining
Fado Irish Pub has dished up the kind of elevated fare that has made it a destination for 17 years in the bustling retail hub of Easton Town Center.
The restaurant recently added the tagline: “Rethink Irish pub food.”
“Our goal is to change perceptions, to get people to raise their expectations,” chef Jason Mrugacz said.
Fish and chips ($16.95 for dinner, $11.95 for lunch) is far from traditional. Fado uses North Atlantic cod sourced specifically for the 11-store restaurant chain. The fish, dredged in a house beer batter, is light and crispy and served with thick-cut potato wedges.
“We’ve been perfecting this dish for a lot of years,” Mrugacz said.
Corned beef is the centerpiece of a platter with dumplings and braised kale ($15.95). The beef, torn by hand into large chunks, is prepared by a butcher exclusively for the restaurant, the chef said. The dumplings have a hint of nutmeg, and the kale is braised in the corned-beef jus.
“Actually, as an interesting side note, it’s more popular in Columbus than any of the other cities we’re in,” Mrugacz said.
Two of the more
How often do you eat out per week?
It changes a lot. In the summer we go more often, about 3-4 times a week. But I am also a big cook, so I tend to stay in and cook as well.
Where do you like to eat Downtown?
Probably my favorite place down there right now is Brassica (680 N. High St.). I just like how they make everything from scratch, and it is a lot different than most places. It is affordable, is healthy depending on what you get, and beer is on draft as well. They’re really big Way
11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to midnight Fridays, 9 a.m. to midnight Saturdays and 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays
614-418-0066, www.fadoirishpub.com/ columbus
popular dishes use boxty, a thin crepe made with potatoes: quesadillas filled with chicken, cheese and pico de gallo and topped with red-pepper aioli; and tortilla-style wedges served with Irish cheddar dip ($9.95).
The brunch menu, offered from 9 a.m. (earlier on soccer-game
on quality, and so the stuff is always fresh and good.
What has been the best dining experience you’ve had?
I have to say that I think Bonifacio (1577 King Ave.), when they host their Kamayan dinner. You go for days) to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, got a reboot recently. On the menu are curried deviled eggs ($4.95 for four); bourbon-spiked granola and berries with yogurt mixed with matcha, a green-tea powder ($7.75); and smoked salmon served on pressed rye with horseradish, lemon cream cheese, fresh dill and watermelon radish ($8.95).
Those with lighter appetites can opt for the kale and barley salad ($10.95), also offering roasted cauliflower, dried cranberries, pickled onions and feta cheese dressed in a house-made mint vinaigrette.
The menu also includes a smallsandwich menu with dinner with friends, and they split you up so you have to eat with strangers and make you eat with your hands off of banana leaves.
Favorite restaurant close to home?
It’s kind of a cheat since it just came here, but I am a huge hot chicken fan (Hot Chicken Takeover, 4203 N. High St.; also at North Market, 59 Spruce St.). I also like Flowers & Bread (3870 N. High St.). Everything there is just delicious.
Where do you and your significant other like to go?
I would say that it four choices (two for $11, three for $13.75 and four for $15.95) that come with housecut chips made from rooster potatoes, which were first cultivated in Ireland.
“They’re definitely a different type of potato,” Mrugacz said.
The most popular sandwiches are the Irish toastie, made with maplewood-smoked, all-natural ham, cheddar and mango chutney; and the pulled pork, cooked sous vide-style for 18 to 24 hours and seasoned with Korean barbecue sauce and topped with coleslaw.
“It is about as tender as it could possibly be,” Mrugacz said. depends. For a special occasions, we go to The Top (Steakhouse, 2891 E. Main St.). It’s so oldschool, and they don’t pretend to be anything they’re not. It still looks like the ‘50s in there. There’s steak, big shrimp cocktails and martinis. It’s not fussy, and they do it well.
Our new favorite is Rockmill Tavern in the Brewery District (503 S. Front St.). The spicy chicken sandwich is excellent, and I get it a lot.