The Columbus Dispatch

Low-fat milk keeps veggies in cheese sauce low-calorie

- By Ellie Krieger Ellie Krieger is a nutritioni­st and cookbook author.

As side dishes go, it's hard to go wrong simply sauteing seasonal vegetables in a skillet with olive oil, an allium such as garlic, onion or shallot, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper.

I was about to do just that with some cauliflowe­r, asparagus and peas in my refrigerat­or that needed to be cooked, but I wanted something more unctuous: a side that was richer, more exciting and more deeply flavorful to elevate the basic roast chicken I was planning to serve alongside it.

The answer came in the form of a creamy Parmesan sauce, made right in the skillet with the vegetables, which ultimately envelops them in rich, cheesy goodness. And it does so in a more healthful way with thickened low-fat milk instead of cream and a relatively modest amount of flavor-packed Parmigiano­Reggiano cheese.

Using riced cauliflowe­r (which you can obtain by grating the florets on the large-holed side of a box grater — or by purchasing it already riced) allows the vegetable to meld with the white sauce and provide an almost risotto-like texture to the dish.

Sweet peas and chopped asparagus add flecks of spring green, and a sprinkling of cheese treated to a minute or two under the broiler browns the top of the bubbling mixture. It all makes for a nice presentati­on.

I served mine right in the skillet on the table (with a towel wrapped around the hot handle). It was exactly the kind of luxe dish I had hoped for as a partner for the chicken. It is so substantia­l, it would also work well in larger portions as a vegetarian main course. 2 main-course servings or 4 side-dish servings 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium to large shallot, chopped ( cup) 4 ounces cauliflowe­r rice (1 cup; see NOTE) 1 cup fresh or frozen green peas ½ bunch asparagus, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into

-inch pieces ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon flour 1 cup low-fat milk (1 percent) 1 ounce freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese ( cup)

Position an oven rack 6 inches from the broiler element; preheat the broiler. Heat the oil in a 10-inch cast-iron or other nonstick, ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, stir in the shallot. Cook for 2 minutes, until softened, then stir in the cauliflowe­r rice, peas, asparagus, salt and pepper. Cook for 2 minutes, then sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir to coat evenly. Add the milk and stir until it comes to a gentle boil, then stir in half the cheese. Cook for about 3 minutes, stirring occasional­ly, until the vegetables are firm-tender and the sauce has thickened. Turn off the heat. Scatter the surface of the mixture with the remaining cheese. Transfer to the oven and broil for a minute or two, until lightly browned on top. Serve warm. NOTE: Cauliflowe­r "rice" is available in the refrigerat­ed produce section of many supermarke­ts. To make your own, grate the tops of cauliflowe­r florets on the large-holed side of a box grater. PER SERVING (based on 2): 290 calories, 18 g protein, 29 g carbohydra­tes, 6 g dietary fiber, 16 g sugar, 13 g fat (4 g saturated), 15 mg cholestero­l, 520 mg sodium

 ?? [DEB LINDSEY/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST] ??
[DEB LINDSEY/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST]

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