The Columbus Dispatch

Vapor retarder shouldn’t be overlooked

- Tim Carter

Q: I'm flummoxed. I've seen videos and read online articles about needing a vapor barrier in the walls of my home and possibly under concrete slabs. My builder says these things are a waste of money. I need your vote of confidence and written words to give me the strength to demand they be used. What are these materials? Do they work? And where would you use them in your home?

A: Have you ever been rolled over by a builder, remodeler or salesperso­n? In the past week, it happened to both my son-in-law and my son. Knowledge is power, and the person with the gold makes the rules. Those are two axioms I'm continuing to pass along to my children and their spouses.

It's important to realize that vapor is very hard to stop. That's why it's best to call the products vapor retarders, not vapor barriers. I can tell you unequivoca­lly they're fantastic products, and I'd use them in my house in certain areas all the time and in other places sometimes.

You should visit the authoritat­ive website Buildingsc­ience.com for some amazing facts and figures.

A key point about vapor retarders is that, like other products, there are different levels of quality. Some products are cheap and do a so-so job of blocking vapor. If you spend a few more dollars, you can get superior products. I buy only those that pass the ASTM E1745 test.

Water vapor lives in the soil — unless your home is in the Atacama Desert, where you might find trace amounts. Normal soil is damp, and the water vapor is constantly trying to escape into the air. You want to keep this vapor in the soil under your basement slab and out of your crawlspace. High-performanc­e vapor retarders do just that. Water vapor in basements and garages can rust equipment and tools and lead to mold growth on walls.

Water vapor can also cause severe wood rot in walls of modern homes. This happens primarily in cold or hot climates. You've surely taken a cold beverage can outdoors on a humid summer day and seen water droplets form on the outside surface, right? The same thing can happen in your walls, where water vapor can condense on the cool surface of exterior sheathing in a cold climate or the cool surface of drywall in a hot, humid climate when you have your AC on low.

A vapor retarder placed on the correct side of an exterior wall can stop wood rot, mold and mildew. Just do a little more research and you'll discover exactly what to do in your climate. Gather the data and don't get rolled by your builder or remodeler. After all, it's your money and your castle. Protect it!

Q: I spent more than five figures on new, efficient replacemen­t windows. I invested in the new windows because my old windows had lots of condensati­on streaming down the glass. I still have some condensati­on forming on the new ones. What's going on?did I get ripped off?

A: Condensati­on is the bane for many a homeowner. I clearly remember the water pouring off the single-pane steel casement windows of my childhood home each winter. My mom would routinely have me towel the window sills dry in my never-ending battle with the wretched water.

It's possible you were ripped off, depending on the quality of the replacemen­t windows you bought. My advice to all who ask me about windows is to purchase replacemen­t windows that carry the gold AAMA label. Windows that have this certificat­ion are the highest quality you can get.

But here's the rub. I could install an AAMA goldlabel window in your home perfectly using the latest expanding foam insulation, and you still might have condensati­on. Here's why:

Condensati­on forms when the temperatur­e of a surface drops below the dew point of the air touching the surface. That might make your brain hurt, so here's an example.

Imagine the outdoor temperatur­e drops to minus-15 degrees one night. Even though your new windows have the best double-pane glass, the surface of the inner pane of glass in your home might drop down to 50 degrees while the outer pane of glass is at minus-15 degrees. If you have your humidifier set too high and the dew point of the air in your home is 51 degrees or higher, condensati­on is going to start to form on the glass.

The key to preventing window glass condensati­on is to lower the humidity in your home as the temperatur­e drops outdoors. There are automatic controls that can do this for you.

Tim Carter writes for the Tribune Content Agency. You can visit his website (www.askthebuil­der. com) to see examples of the topics mentioned.

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