Polynesia in Powell
New tiki bar honors great such spots of past, disavows kitsch
Dustin Sun is flirting with the tiki gods, something that has been tried — ever so rarely — in central Ohio since the fall of the great Kahiki Supper Club in 2000.
Sun is the owner of Huli Huli Tiki Lounge & Grill, which opens Tuesday at 26 W. Olentangy St. in Powell.
Huli Huli serves several classic drinks, delivered in retro cocktail mugs. Dry-ice vapors waft across the room, adding to the ethereal South Pacific vibe of the bi-level space, which also features an abundance of wooden masks, bamboo, custommade light shades and associated decor.
“We’re trying to find the right stuff that fits without being cheesy,” manager Nate Howe said.
Sun also owns Espresso 22, a coffee shop at 22 S. Liberty St., also in downtown Powell.
“It’s a growing community,” he said. “After three years, I’ve developed a relationship with the community. It’s where I want to stay."
Sun and Howe said they are paying homage to the great tiki bars, such as Trader Vic’s in the San Francisco area. The traditional daiquiri has rum, lime and sugar; you won’t find any strawberries.
Some might remember the drinks of yore, usually on the back of a Chinese-restaurant menu, such as the mai tai, “Pain Killer” and “Zombie.”
The tiki bar is an American construct that has gone in and out of favor since its
debut in the 1930s. As of recently in Columbus, a few have attempted to re-create the idea, including Tai Tiki Polynesian Bar and Grill, which has since closed in the Short North, and the Grass Skirt Tiki Room, which is Downtown.
“A lot of people don’t understand the true meaning behind tiki,” Howe said. “People take it very seriously now. It’s not a kitschy concept.”
In addition to cocktails, Huli Huli serves frozen drinks and a few beers on draft.
Stu Yates is chef of the restaurant, which gets its name from huli huli chicken, a staple dish of Hawaii and one of eight items on the menu, all priced less than $10.
The huli huli chicken wings are brushed with a type of Hawaiian barbecue sauce containing brown sugar, soy, ketchup, pineapple and other ingredients.
The puaa puaa bao has shredded kalua pork, slaw and crispy onions on a bun that is steamed or fried.
The “Big Island” sliders get a slab of Spam, pineapple, Swiss and wasabi mayo.
“It’s the best drinking food on the planet,” Howe said.
Hours are 4:30 p.m. The Nui Nui drink at Huli Huli
to midnight Tuesday through Saturday. For more information, call 614-396-8437.
Persian pop-up
Charmy’s Persian Cuisine is serving up fresh, homemade food from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. every Tuesday at the Hills Market Downtown, 95 N. Grant Ave.
Although the menu will change slightly each week, Charmy’s always will offer a soup of the day, several pita sandwiches, rice bowls and lettuce bowls.
An early customer favorite is the Persian meatball, stuffed with yellow lentils, organic ground lamb, and fresh herbs and spices, and covered in a tomato sauce.
Charmy’s hopes to add Wednesday hours but has not committed, a Hills spokeswoman said.
No ‘show’
Central Ohio’s sixth Hibachi Express Japanese Steakhouse has opened, replacing Mezze Mediterranean Grill at 2051 Henderson Road.
At the express restaurant, the food is prepared behind the counter, meaning there is no “show,” such as flaming onions, flying shrimp and furious fileting, co-owner Visca Imelda said.
Nevertheless, Hibachi Express offers a menu similar to those of other Japanese steakhouses, ranging from vegetables to shrimp, with prices starting at $6.99 and topping out at $24.99 for the lobster and shrimp combo.
Charity collaboration
The annual blending of Hot Chicken Takeover and Mikey’s Late Night Slice starts Monday.
The collaboration, blending hot Nashville chicken and pizza, will run through Feb. 18 at all Mikey’s locations.
For every dollar spent on a slice or whole Hot Mikey’s Takeover pizza, the pizzeria will donate a diaper to a family in need through its partnership with the Columbus Diaper Bank.
Pub swap
Yogi’s Bar & Grill will replace Average Joe’s Pub & Grill at 1126 W. Henderson Road.
A sign on the door said Yogi’s will open in spring.