UA restaurant meets high standards of holistic diner
For those who think “farm to table” has become a hackneyed expression, John and Sunny Fahlgren agree.
Even so, the owners of SOW Plated in Upper Arlington are pushing the boundaries on natural, healthy ingredients to accommodate the holistic diner.
John Fahlgren describes the SOW Plated dining experience with a pleasant distillation: “Celebrate eating at its highest level.”
“You shouldn’t label food as good or bad — it’s about eating food as close to its natural state as often as possible,” he said.
“I like to cook plantbased food,” Sunny Fahlgren added, “but we are
not vegan or vegetarian” — although both dining sects are more than represented on the menu.
“We are not extremists,” she said. “I do believe there is a need for restaurants to have more fruits and vegetables.”
That is where SOW — standing for sustainable, organic, wellness — gleams like a shiny red apple in the autumn sun.
Brushing past the common nomenclature used by today’s conscious eaters, SOW at its core sources the best ingredients that are 100% organic and local whenever possible, said Michael Obermeier, culinary director and managing executive chef of the restaurant at 1625 W. Lane Ave., in the Shops on Lane Avenue.
All meals are cooked from scratch and a deep-fryer isn’t within a grease spatter of the restaurant, Obermeier said. The bread, not made inhouse, is still locally sourced, he said.
Vegan and gluten-free diners have plenty from which to choose: heirloom carrots with roasted fennel; charred tomatoes; fresh mint and spiced dairy-free yogurt; roasted beets with arugula; quinoa and truffle ricotta made from almond milk; and pad thai bowl, filled with marinated tofu, rice noodles, bok choy, carrots, cashews and cilantro.
Of course, “If dad wants a good burger, we got that too,” Obermeier said.
The burger is made from Ohio-raised wagyu beef, draped with smoked gouda and garnished with Dijon microgreens and vegan mayo. It’s served with Middle Eastern-spiced pita chips, or salad or soup for $2 extra. The sustainable whitefish entree at SOW Plated
There are plenty of meat and fish options, including the Faroe Island salmon, a sustainable whitefish, chicken marinated in Indian spices, and a poke bowl using fresh albacore tuna.
Desserts, a source of pride for the chef, include a yuzu pie with coconut whipped cream, berries and a vegan graham-cracker crust.
Most entrees are priced between $12 and $28, with soups and salads costing $4 to $16 and desserts at $6 to $9.
“We wanted a place people could visit often,” John Fahlgren said. “It’s not a special occasion place — every day is a special occasion.”
SOW Plated takes over a 5,100-square-foot space that was formerly occupied by Royal Ginger.
It’s one of the few places in town where customers can saunter out with 32-ounce growlers of freshly squeezed vegetable and fruit juices, which also are available by the glass and are the basis for the cocktail program.
The interior is largely bright and uncluttered, with
seating for 150, a bar area and an open kitchen.
“That’s part of the transparency that people want, to know the kitchen,” John Fahlgren said.
Additionally, there’s a private dining room, a patio with seating for 75, and a chef’s table for 10 near the kitchen, where Obermeier said he’s been known to treat people to a taste of his latest creations.
Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 614-826-0028.
Mix is in
Mix, which will specialize in roasted meats cooked at 450 degrees, is replacing itacos at 4362 Karl Road.
Peruvian-born Albert Denegri, who owns the restaurant with Farxaan Jeyt, a native of Somalia, said the opening is just a few weeks away.
Denegri said the place will offer a variety of Peruvian-style poultry and beef cooked over a mix of hardwood and charcoal, creating platters and sandwiches.
Sweet hire
Pastry chef Kathy Walker, who trained at the French Culinary Institute, has joined Ambrose and Eve at 716 S. High St. in the Brewery District.
So far, she has introduced a stylized version of strawberry shortcake, a hand-held cherry pie and vegan chocolate mousse.
Her take on lemon meringue pie and other classic desserts are expected soon.
Gone fishin’
Mozart’s, at 4784 N. High St. in Clintonville, is on its annual summer break through July 31, opening for regular business hours Aug. 1.