The Columbus Dispatch

Small German Village bistro offers hip atmosphere, delicious dishes

- By G.A. Benton

German Village is crawling with destinatio­n restaurant­s, but few are as rewarding, fun and hip as The Sycamore. Call this another case of good things coming in small packages. And call The Sycamore the little bistro that could — and has — since 2013, when it assumed the handsomely refurbishe­d space of a crusty old dive bar.

Although narrow and rather cramped inside, the place is lively, upbeat and enticing, like a New York hot spot. Vintage brickwork and wood plus soothing shades of gray and brown form the backdrop for a nightly party propelled by a soundtrack of catchy tunes from smart, contempora­ry bands such as Alvvays and Rolling Blackouts Coastal Fever.

If that doesn’t sound like your scene, the serene patio is an excellent alternativ­e. It’s small but has broad wooden tables that afford room to stretch out in a relaxing space bordered by bushes, flowers, vines, strings of light and, ultimately, quaint German Village streets.

Wherever you sit will become more pleasant if you dip into the terrific cocktails (most are $12). For a martini with a floral twist, pick the Roku & Chill. If you prefer something frothy and spicy shaken with tequila, ask for the Senorita Sizzle. My latest favorite is the fizzy, seasonally perfect cucumber spritz (made with OYO vodka, Aperol and sparkling rose), with cool-you-off charms that unfold in appealing watermelon and strawberry tones. Oenophiles will find a nice little wine list; local draft beers are a tad pricey ($8).

True to form here, sophistica­ted touches lend pizazz to a compact menu of mostly familiar dishes assembled with good, often locally sourced, ingredient­s. Interestin­g specials with eye-widening tabs that approach the $40 mark

The veggie bowl stir fry with a cucumber spritz cocktail, left, and a and Roku & Chill cocktail at The Sycamore

The Sycamore 262 E. Sycamore St.

narrow and often packed with a high-spirited crowd; a relaxing patio provides a quieter alternativ­e

Children’s menu: no

Reservatio­ns: yes

Accessibil­ity: difficult

Liquor license: full bar

Quick click: Sophistica­ted cocktails set the mood for a compact menu of contempora­ry American bistro dishes elevated by refined touches and good, often locally sourced, ingredient­s.

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