Unusual, gluten-free Argentine spot a winner
Certain facts and observations are worth noting right off the bat: Choripan Argentine Grill is a hidden gem that offers delicious, affordable and widely accessible dishes (save for one mind-boggling item I will get to later) cooked from scratch in an unassuming little space in a Dublin strip mall.
Sorry for that abrupt information dump. But I didn’t want to pigeonhole Choripan as a niche eatery by introducing it as a South American-leaning place whose fare has been designed for diners with dietary restrictions.
Because if, like me, your only dietary restriction is “No poison, please,” you are likely to become an instant fan of Choripan’s easy-to-love food, too. If you are concerned about particular dietlinked maladies, you probably will appreciate the place all the more.
Some pertinent details: Choripan is a gluten-free operation whose menu advertises that, “All our food is consciously created to be keto, paleo, and primal friendly.”
Its food also seems consciously created for lovers of grilled meats, crowdpleasing sides and savory pastries. Bonus: The takeout-only restaurant (at least currently) is about a three-minute drive from a scenic alfresco dining spot in Llewellyn Farms Park.
Empanadas — those aforementioned pastries — are mainstays of Argentine cuisine and duly featured on Choripan’s well-organized menu. Fashioned
with grain-free tapioca flour (a rarity for a Columbus restaurant), Choripan’s standout empanadas ($4 each) are hefty and attractive fried pockets with appealingly crisp-yet-chewy textures and six different but uncommonly strong fillings. One makes a great snack; two would be a light meal.
You can’t go wrong with any of them, such as the Pollo — stew-like chicken chunks with bits of crinkly skin, onions, peppers and tomatoes; Carne — seasoned ground beef and diced potatoes related to zesty Texas-style chili and, especially, Cuban picadillo; Espinaca — wonderfully tangy spinach bolstered by molten cheese; and Chorizo — terrific house-made, bratwurststyle sausage flavored with wine and garlic.
Two enormous links of that juicy and addictive sausage arrived skillfully seared in the Chorizo al Plato ($15 with a side). As good as that entree was, I’d be remiss not to also steer you
Contact: 614-467-9288, choripan. com
toward one of the better local inexpensive steak dinners: the Lomito al Plato ($15 with a side) — an Argentine staple of grill-crusted, lean-but-flavorful beef served with a vibrant chimichurri sauce.
Side-dish choices for “al Plato” entrees are sizable, far from afterthoughts, and $3 as a la carte items. These include: Batata Fritas — excellent sweet potato chips that were crisp, lacy and amusingly shaped like nets; Papas Fritas — hand-cut, mostly crisp, substantial french fries served with house ketchup; Ensalada de Col — mayo-free and refreshing, sweet-andsour coleslaw decorated with poppy seeds; and a cut-above green salad. Although not really sides, the Salsa Criollo (like pico de gallo) and Palta (think deconstructed guacamole) definitely warrant an extra $2.
Choripan also makes interesting biscuit-like rolls. This gluten-free bread shows up in the eatery's worthwhile sandwiches, such as the chorizo-loaded Argentine classic the place is named for (Choripan, $16), the Pechuga (flawlessly grilled chicken breast, $12), and a BLT ($12) assembled with a modicum of house mayo (I wanted more) and plenty of thick and impressive house bacon cured in kombucha.
Fried pie aficionados would be wise to order the recommended Pastelitos ($6): A mammoth wonton-like wrapper with a delightful mixed-berry filling in its middle.
Now, for that mind-blowing item. It was the face-torching Habanero Wings ($6), aka the hottest thing I have eaten this year. I strongly suspect my batch was a capsaicin outlier because the wing sauce was so incendiary that I instantly launched into a hiccup-accompanied, spasmodic dance while I experienced what could only be called a psychoactive reaction. Although this was a wild sensation and (I’m told) quite a sight, next time, I’ll just order more pastelitos.
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Wine: 2018 Vette di San Leonardo Sauvignon Blanc
Price: $24.99
Availability: Hausfrau Haven, Giuseppe’s Ritrovo and Scali Ristorante
Aroma: attractive minerality, peach suggestions
Flavor: mouth-filling, with apricot notes, balanced acids, and moderate to long mineral finish
Notes: From the Dolomites region of Italy’s far north, a very attractive display of sauvignon blanc’s cool-climate responses. Serve slightly chilled, with shrimp appetizers, seafood pastas and risottos, and soft cheeses.
— Jon Christensen Dispatch wine reviewer jac@iwaynet.net