The Columbus Dispatch

Delightful teas at Cambridge Tea House

- G.A. Benton

Should you extend a pinkie when sipping high-quality tea from a plastic flask? What is the prescribed etiquette for grazing on dainty delights, such as scones and clotted cream, while squatting in grass?

These were some, umm, pressing thoughts I had while awaiting curbside delivery of the carefully prepared and very pleasurabl­e fare offered at Cambridge Tea House, a beloved Marble Cliff eatery that’s been in the tea-andmore business since 2009.

Those aforementi­oned questions arose because, during my visits in late March, Cambridge Tea House only offered takeout. So its suitably quaint interior wasn’t available to the many carbound patrons in the establishm­ent’s parking lot eagerly anticipati­ng the conveyance of goodies.

News update: At the time of this writing, Cambridge is preparing for the immediate resumption of dining room and patio seating.

This means that customers can again properly enjoy Cambridge’s renowned English-style afternoon tea ($18.50), which entails decorative plates, pots of just-brewed tea plus treats and finger sandwiches presented on three-tiered trays. There’s a distinct charm to dining like that, but as I recently discovered, Cambridge’s menu items are also great for alfresco dining (the restaurant will continue to offer curbside delivery).

Cambridge’s picnic-perfect, impressive sandwiches arrive on excellent rustic-yet-refined house-made bread with a sourdough tang. Also included: a side, such as a good fruit cup or a fine julienne-carrot salad that offsets refreshing vinegary accents with celery seed and raisins.

I particular­ly enjoyed the grilled roast beef & aged cheddar ($12), elevated by a little horseradis­h and pickled onions, plus the fantastic crowning touch of audibly crunchy bread draped in cheese fried into cracker-like frico.

Although less flamboyant, the bacon & avocado ($11.50), which effectively played crisp-and-smoky pigmeat off of cream cheese wed to pristinely green avocado, was super-satisfying. Ditto for the herbed chicken and goat cheese ($11.50), which showcased flavorful chunks of breast meat with tangy dairy, arugula and precisely sliced cucumber slivers. The egg and cheese breakfast sandwich ($8.95) with bacon ($2.75 extra) was uncharacte­ristically greasy, but tasted great.

Not craving a sandwich? Other good options abound, such as the salad trio ($11.50), which features large scoops of well-made and admirably mayo-restrained salads plus a side, such as soup ($3.50 a la carte) — which, in my case, was stellar tomato bisque.

My repeat-worthy salad selections were curried egg, lemony tuna and orange chicken (poached meat enhanced with grapes, pecans, plus hints of orange juice and horseradis­h).

Quiche fans will be pleased with Cambridge’s custardy “du jour” renditions ($8.95, with a fruit cup and bread). The spinach & goat cheese omelet ($11, with fruit and toast) would’ve been nice even without its side of vibrant, lemon-kissed pesto.

I correctly assumed such egg-based meals would be winners, but was surprised by the unexpected­ly substantia­l and lovable breakfast bowl ($8.95): a fluffy-yet-hearty, souffle-like amalgam with chosen add-ons such as sausage, snipped asparagus, melted Swiss and spinach.

I haven’t mentioned tea yet. You should definitely get some. Whether opting for a classic, such as hot Earl Grey ($3 per cup; $5.25 per small pot) or springtime-appropriat­e flavored iced teas ($2.50) — try the floral blood orange or pleasantly tart raspberry — pair your tea with some of Cambridge’s exemplary baked goods.

I loved the cakelike lemon and banana “tea breads” ($2.50 each), but the scones — which arrived with a little bit of vanilla-scented house clotted cream I’d consume by the gallon — are a must.

Personal note: Because I do have manners, while finishing a scone and sipping house-bottled iced tea from a plastic pint flask ($3.25) during a recent picnic, I extended my pinkie to politely extract the last of the clotted cream from a way-too-small plastic container.

gabenton.dispatch@gmail.com

 ?? ROB HARDIN/ALIVE ?? Quiche Lorraine with fruit and a cream scone from Cambridge Tea House.
ROB HARDIN/ALIVE Quiche Lorraine with fruit and a cream scone from Cambridge Tea House.
 ?? ROB HARDIN/ALIVE ?? Grilled roast beef and aged cheddar sandwich with carrot salad and butternut squash soup from Cambridge Tea House.
ROB HARDIN/ALIVE Grilled roast beef and aged cheddar sandwich with carrot salad and butternut squash soup from Cambridge Tea House.

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