The Columbus Dispatch

GLAD TO BE BACK

Watershed Distillery restaurant reopens after year-plus hiatus

- Gary Seman Jr.

Watershed Kitchen & Bar, which closed more than a year ago because of COVID-19, is back open, allowing customers to get their hands on crispy fingerlings or a craft cocktail.

When Ohio officials handed restaurant­s their closing orders last year, Jack Moore wasn’t pleased but he understood why.

The chef of the restaurant, at 1145 Chesapeake

Ave. near Grandview Heights, was under no illusions that the COVID-19 pandemic would go away quickly.

But even as some restrictio­ns were eased – eventually masks could be worn and customers appropriat­ely distanced – the owners of the restaurant decided not to chance it until June 3, when the state lifted mask requiremen­ts.

“We didn’t see a good way to – for lack of a better term – make a profit during these uncertain times,” Moore said.

Certainly, he said, human collateral was a big

considerat­ion; How would people enjoy themselves, serving or dining, if they were apprehensi­ve about getting sick?

So, the wait for the restaurant started, while its sister company, Watershed Distillery, remained open and even added craft-cocktail kits to-go to its lineup.

Employees were given assistance to apply for unemployme­nt, a crowdfundi­ng platform was establishe­d to help supplement their cash flow and meals were served once a week for a time to laid-off employees.

“If the distillery didn’t exist, this restaurant wouldn’t exist,” said Moore, who was among those who left the restaurant only to return.

Moore said the restaurant was not interested in trying to remain partially open.

“We wanted to create a great a dinein experience with great food and staff,” he said.

That dining experience includes the “perfect” carrots, cooked in their own juices that seep out during the curing process, and served with kumquat, pistachio butter and malted barley.

For the burger, the beef is sourced from an Ohio farmer and processor. In popular fashion, the two patties are smashed hard against the grill, and garnished with chili crisp aioli, caramelize­d fennel and taleggio white cheese sauce.

“It’s sloppy,” he said. “It’s messy. It’s what I like in a burger.”

The “smoked” baby back ribs, whose richness is cut by pickled shallots and chives, are propped on a trivet inside in a cast iron skillet. Hay placed under the trivet is set ablaze for a stunning presentati­on and allowing the smoke to season the meat.

Still, it’s not quite business as usual. “Our overall struggle is staffing, but we’re not the only ones in that boat,” Moore said, adding that hours also aren’t back to full capacity.

Bar manager David Yee said the coronaviru­s vaccine has put customers and staff at ease, creating the ambience for which Watershed Kitchen & Bar was known before the pandemic hit.

Yee is just happy to take off his mask. “It’s great to talk at room volume,” he said.

Hours are 5 to 10 p.m. Thursdays, 5 to 11 p.m. Fridays, 4 to 11 p.m. Saturdays and 4 to 9 p.m. Sundays. For more informatio­n, call 614-357-1936.

Barrel roll

Barrel & Boar BBQ has expanded once again, acquiring the Smoked Food Factory at 1217 S. Broad St. in Lancaster.

With a new name, Barrel & Boar BBQ Factory marks the sixth location for the locally owned and operated brand,

founded and owned by Stan Riley.

Fresh meats and eats

BD Internatio­nal Market and Restaurant is opening in the Carriage Place Shopping Center on the Northwest Side.

It will offer Indian and Chinese groceries, fresh halal meats and dine-in fare for 72 people when it opens by August at 2540 Bethel Road, owner Syed Monoar said.

Monoar also is the owner of Curry N Grill and Halal China Bistro in the Mall at Tuttle Crossing.

Barrio to feed fans

Barrio Tacos will meet hungry Buckeye fans on their home turf this football season.

The Cleveland-based company, with one central Ohio location at 1416 W. Fifth Ave., has inked a deal to open a location inside Ohio Stadium, serving tacos, appetizers and margaritas.

The Barrio stand, to be located on the main concourse at Section 10A, will be ready for Ohio State’s first football home game, Sept. 11 against Oregon.

onrestaura­nts@dispatch.com

 ?? BARBARA J. PERENIC/COLUMBUS DISPATCH ?? Bar manager David Yee and chef Jack Moore said they waited to open, thinking people couldn’t enjoy themselves if they were apprehensi­ve about getting sick.
BARBARA J. PERENIC/COLUMBUS DISPATCH Bar manager David Yee and chef Jack Moore said they waited to open, thinking people couldn’t enjoy themselves if they were apprehensi­ve about getting sick.
 ?? BARBARA J. PERENIC/COLUMBUS DISPATCH ?? The hay-smoked ribs at Watershed Kitchen & Bar have returned.
BARBARA J. PERENIC/COLUMBUS DISPATCH The hay-smoked ribs at Watershed Kitchen & Bar have returned.
 ?? BARBARA J. PERENIC/COLUMBUS DISPATCH ?? Bar manager David Yee said the coronaviru­s vaccine has put customers and staff at ease, creating the ambience for which Watershed Kitchen & Bar was known before the pandemic hit.
BARBARA J. PERENIC/COLUMBUS DISPATCH Bar manager David Yee said the coronaviru­s vaccine has put customers and staff at ease, creating the ambience for which Watershed Kitchen & Bar was known before the pandemic hit.

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