The Columbus Dispatch

Vittoria has the chops when it comes to steak, pasta

- Gary Seman Jr.

Vittoria is rebounding nicely from the COVID-19 pandemic, returning to its perch of popularity in the Powell area.

Even with the coronaviru­s-related death of chef Willi Lalli, who owned the restaurant with his son, Nick, Vittoria has been dishing up ample portions of homemade food in the style of a modern Italian steakhouse.

The rack of lamb ($40) offers bone-in double chops brushed with rosemary, garlic, herbs and olive oil while the meat is grilled.

The lamb is paired with Brussels sprouts that are roasted with pancetta, mushroom risotto and a ramekin full of mint chimichurr­i sauce.

“It all blends very nicely,” Nick Lalli said. “The chimichurr­i gives a nice minty complement to the lamb.”

The Lallis bought Vittoria in September 2019 giving it a fresh update after its founding in 2008. Willi Lalli also owned La Scala, an iconic Italian restaurant in Dublin.

But pandemic-related economic stressors ultimately lead to its closing in October 2020, three months after the infection claimed the owner’s life.

“It’s tough that he’s not here,” Nick Lalli said. However, he credits chefs and brothers Jaime and Javier Gutierrez for carrying out his father’s culinary creations and mission.

“They’re amazing,” Lalli said. The 16-ounce bone-in rib-eye ($50) is among the most popular dishes, ladled with a light sauce of sauteed tomatoes, basil, olive oil, white wine and garlic. The entree is accompanie­d by Asiago risotto and pancetta green beans.

“It’s just a mouthwater­ing sensation that just pops,” Lalli said.

The 8-ounce filet Oscar ($55) offers a twist – a spicy Cajun bearnaise sauce covering the meat and lump crab, with risotto and asparagus also sharing the plate.

“It’s not overly spicy, just a little bit of zip,” Lalli said. “It just gives it a different flavor profile but it blends very well.”

Vittoria also is known for classic Italian meats, such as the “one-pound” lasagna ($20) made with homemade pasta sheets.

“It’s honestly about 15 to 20 layers thick and cut it into squares when served,” Lalli said.

Willi Lalli created his own classic – linguine with clams ($25), house-made sausage crumbles, peppadew peppers, tomatoes, a white wine sauce and a little chili flake.

“It’s just a great twist in linguine and clams, especially when you throw the homemade sausage in it,” Lalli said.

One of Lalli’s favorites: homemade gnocchi ($20), little potato dumplings tossed in a Bolognese sauce with a touch of cream and a sausage link.

“Those potato dumplings hit you and fill you up,” he said.

He said that the portions can cause patrons to do a double-take.

“Willi always said, “I don’t want anyone to ever leave this restaurant hungry,” he said.

 ?? VITTORIA ?? This is the bone-in ribeye at Vittoria’s.
VITTORIA This is the bone-in ribeye at Vittoria’s.

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