Hungarian Butcher links area to sausage
Offering fresh, smoked meats
Dan Varga has put his plans into motion to create a specialty butcher shop in Linworth.
The Hungarian Butcher, a concept he started in 2016, will have a permanent storefront at 2177 W. Dublin-granville Road, located between Cameron’s American Bistro and Main Moon, a Chinese restaurant.
“I was quiet for a while,” Varga said. “Time to make some noise.”
The European seam-style butchery, expected to open in October, will feature fresh, smoked, cured and aged meats.
Varga might best be remembered for his association with Butcher & Grocer, which carried a line of his products.
He also did pop-ups with Hungarian food.
Varga and his wife, Beverly, moved to Florida three years ago. They returned to Columbus 11⁄2 years later to be closer to family and friends because Varga’s wife
was suffering from multiple chronic health conditions that eventually claimed her life.
“The support group was huge here,” he said.
His latest enterprise adds to his legacy of Hungarian-style sausages using mostly pork and beef – and cuts of offal – and lamb from hand-selected Ohio farms. He said he will occasionally add duck and rabbit, depending on the season and what is sustainable.
“I know the farms,” he said. “I know the people raising the animals and I know how they’re treating the product.”
He said he will break down whole animals and hand-crank the raw product into casing at his 1,300-square-foot shop.
“Everything’s old-school here,” said the self-taught chef. “I got hand-saws and knives. That’s what we’re using.”
His main sausage line will include links and larger cuts and charcuterie meats, which can be bought by the pound or can be assembled by staff.
A small selection of grocery items – wholegrain mustards, pickles and jams, as well as beer and wine – will be available.
Varga said he will be joined by his right-hand man and fellow artisan, Roel Holman, while Varga’s son, Donnie, is joining the business and his other son, Eric, plans to assist.
Patrons can expect to see hurka, a sausage made with pork, pork liver and hearts, and rice; and teliszalmi, a type of salami made from a blend of beef and pork, peppercorns, white wine, marjoram and paprika from Szeged, considered some of the world’s best.
Lamb will be transformed into pastrami, kolbasz (sausage) and andouille, among other varieties. Lamb belly will be cured and dried in the style of Italian pancetta.
Prepared foods, such as cabbage rolls, chicken paprikash and goulash, will be introduced at a later date, he said.
Tony Tanner, the owner of Butcher & Grocer, said he’s excited for Varga.
“I think it’s going to be great,” Tanner said. “Dan makes really, really good salamis and cured meats, some of the best I’ve ever had, really.
“I think he’s going to do great up there with that concept.”
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