G. Michael’s owners: Rent was about to double
Upscale-casual restaurant had set model for independents
In 1998, G. Michael’s Bistro & Bar came along at an interesting time in Columbus’ culinary history.
A new brand was emerging: The independent upscale-casual restaurant with chefs who were just beginning to source local ingredients and change their menus with every season.
The model was a big success. So, it came as a shock to many observers this week that the German Village institution, 595 S. Third St., had closed.
German Village denizen Katharine Moore, executive director of the Jefferson Avenue Center, was at G. Michael’s on opening day.
“They worked so, so hard, and they elevated the whole community,” Moore said. “I think the caliber of the business was extraordinary.”
Behind the scenes, the closing wasn’t that surprising.
Jeff Benson, who co-founded the restaurant with Michael Reames, who was no longer associated with the restaurant, said a perfect storm had been brewing: COVID-19, a labor shortage, skyrocketing commodity prices and a lease that was about to double in rent.
Benson and partner David Tetzloff, also the chef, decided to pull the plug Sept. 11.
“We’re not mad. Obviously, we’re sad, but also proud of the how the 23 years went. We had a great run, we met a lot of great people and worked with a lot of great people. It sounds cliche but it’s the people, the relationships you’ve made with life-long friends.” Jeff Benson G. Michael’s Bistro & Bar co-founder
“Right now, with everything going on, it didn’t make sense to us” to continue, Benson said.
Building an institution
When it opened, the restaurant took over the former Jimmy’s Upstairs, reworking the space by moving a patio out front and enclosing an open space that would become G. Michael’s.
G. Michael’s took 3,700 square feet of space, while the upstairs remained as a separate professional office.
“It changed a lot when David came on board,” Benson said.
Tetzloff was classically trained at Johnson & Wales University in Charleston, where he mastered lowcountry techniques. He moved to Columbus in 1999, when he started at G. Michael’s, and would be promoted to executive chef a year later.
He was instrumental in making G. Michael’s a critical darling in an era when relative newcomers – Alana’s
Food & Wine, Strada World Cuisine – also were soaking up the headlines.
Curating a respectable wine list was Benson’s wish.
“I worked really hard on the wine list to bring in lesser-known brands to the restaurant,” he said.
Benson credits the 55 Restaurant Group, his alma mater and locally based culinary powerhouse, for inspiring a new wave of entrepreneurs – perhaps most notably, Cameron Mitchell of the Cameron Mitchell Restaurants.
“For awhile, every restaurant had a connection to 55,” Benson said.
The last remnant of the 55 Restaurant Group is Polaris Grill, 1835 Polaris Parkway, which just celebrated its 21st anniversary.
Owners Darren Greene and Cliff Madden both worked for 55, Greene as CEO and Madden as general manager of Polaris Grill.
Greene said his restaurant also struggled with COVID-19, but they were able to control rent costs by purchasing the building.
“I think it’s a loss for us,” Greene said of G. Michael’s closing. “It’s a loss for the city. It’s definitely disappointing to see them go.”
Is the energy behind G. Michael’s really gone?
Just what’s in store for Benson and Tetzloff is unclear at this point, Benson said.
“We’re taking some time off,” he said. “I don’t think there will be a continuation of the G. Michael’s brand.”
Benson then paused, and laughed a little.
“Who knows what will happen in the next few days as people are hearing” about the closing? he said.
He seemed to take the troubles in stride.
“To open a restaurant as an independent is an awfully tricky proposition,” Benson said.
He paid considerable homage to guests and staff.
“We’re not mad,” he said. “Obviously, we’re sad, but also proud of the how the 23 years went. We had a great run, we met a lot of great people and worked with a lot of great people.
“It sounds cliche but it’s the people, the relationships you’ve made with lifelong friends.” gseman@thisweeknews.com @Thisweekgary