The Columbus Dispatch

Matt the Miller's lives up to rep for innovative menu

- Gary Seman Jr. Columbus Dispatch USA TODAY NETWORK

In 2008, the original Matt the Miller’s Tavern debuted in Dublin as part of an emerging restaurant scene that was eager to welcome more upscale-casual options.

Before Bridge Park and the revitalize­d Historic Dublin, the venue built its reputation by hiring key personnel and presenting tantalizin­g food, said Craig Barnum, founder of CLB Restaurant­s, which includes Matt the Miller’s in Polaris, West Chester (Cincinnati area) and Carmel, Indiana, as well as other dining concepts.

“It’s all about culture and hiring the right people,” he said.

That includes innovative chefs, who revise and refresh the menu often.

A fairly recent menu item is the Nashville hot chicken flatbread ($15.50), offering pieces of fried white meat, garlic olive oil, applewood smoked bacon, avocado, shredded lettuce and tomato, and an heirloom tomato ranch.

“It’s got some kick to it, for people who like something a little spicy,” Barnum said. ‘That’s been well-received.”

The dip duo ($13.75), which has changed several times over the years, now offers a white-bean hummus with rosemary-sage pesto and a Greek-style tapenade with Kalamatas and red-pepper feta, as pita and vegetables are served on the side.

“What’s great about an appetizer like that is it’s easy to share,” Barnum said.

Sandwiches always have been a big draw on the menu.

The portobello Reuben ($13.50), a crowd-pleaser, uses thin slices of corned beef, spiced mushrooms, sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing and Swiss on rye.

Another favorite is the Cuban ($14.50), slow-roasted, shredded pork shoulder, ham, Swiss, pickles and honey mustard on a toasted hoagie roll. Add a side of mac and cheese for $1.

The entree menu is suited for cooler temperatur­es, featuring dishes with lots of bold flavors, such as the pork tenderloin ($22.99) marinated in a dry rub of cumin, paprika, brown sugar and other seasonings for at least 36 hours and grilled for some texture on the exterior. It is plated with apple-whiskey sauce, mashed potatoes and asparagus.

Potato-crusted walleye is an upscale riff on fish and chips ($26.99), served with crispy smashed redskin potatoes, green beans and malt vinegar tarragon aioli.

“it’s a great sauce,” Barnum said. “There’s flavor there but it’s light. I think people who eat fish don’t want something heavy and don’t want something saucy.”

As beef prices have skyrockete­d over the years, Matt the Miller’s has pared down its offerings but still has an a la carte menu of steaks and sides.

It also offers chef-driven steak dishes, including the lightly blackened 10ounce sirloin ($32.99) topped with a Cajun cream sauce, tasso ham and mushrooms, additional­ly plated with broccoli and mashed potatoes.

As Barnum said: “There’s a lot of flavor on there.”

 ?? KEVIN BLACK ?? The fare at Matt the Miller’s Tavern in Dublin includes Nashville hot chicken flatbread, blackened sirloin and Cuban sandwich with mac and cheese.
KEVIN BLACK The fare at Matt the Miller’s Tavern in Dublin includes Nashville hot chicken flatbread, blackened sirloin and Cuban sandwich with mac and cheese.

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