ENTREPRENEURSHIP ON LIVINGSTON
Fishburger builds on neighborhood’s legacy
Back in October, Tawny Nash was shopping in Sam’s Club when she spotted two men wearing “Fishburger” T-shirts.
“I was in another aisle and I yelled at them, ‘Where is your Fishburger?’” said Nash, a 78year-old Far East Sider—and self-proclaimed fish-lover.
“They told me and said, ‘This is our grand opening today.’ I said, ‘I’ll be there.’”
Sure enough, Nash showed up at the Driving Park restaurant at Livingston and Rhodes avenues. She was bowled over by the Fishburger sandwich, which features fried salmon, a special drip sauce and a signature lemon wedge on top.
She’s been telling everyone about it ever since.
“It’s amazing,” she said. “I expect this business to fly. I really do.”
The two men she met in the grocery store are owners Demetrius Howard and Randy
“It was just like an experiment. I didn’t want to go to work for anybody. I don’t want to be in that box anymore.” Randy Keyes, co-owner of Fishburger
Keyes. With a following that is growing larger by the day, the South Side natives are hoping to make their mark in the neighborhood’s legacy of Black entrepreneurship.
A talented, self-taught chef, Keyes began selling food out of his home when he was fired from his day job at a financial services company.
“It was just like an experiment,” said Keyes, 32, who now lives in Linden. “I didn’t want to go to work for anybody. I don’t want to be in that box anymore.”
He built his reputation selling his food at nightclubs and, at one point, out of a food truck. But he didn’t have enough stability to keep going by himself.
Luckily, around that time, Howard was looking to invest in a business after selling his home. The longtime friends decided to partner, and when Howard saw the “for rent” sign on the modest building, they jumped at the opportunity.
“We wanted a place in an urban community,” said Howard, 35, also a rapper and producer under the name “Soop,” who currently lives on the East Side.
Previously, the space belonged to handful of restaurants: the beloved Donut Hole, and then two different chicken and waffles establishments. Fishburger is currently carryout-only, but may have picnic seating outdoors in the future.
Howard was excited about drawing customers from the significant traffic on Livingston Avenue.
“It just seems perfect,” he said. “We’re right on the frontline of arguably the biggest street in the (city), other than Cleveland Avenue and High Street.”
In the past, Driving Park was home to many beloved Black-owned businesses, including a 45-year-old barbecue joint, nightclub, record store and purveyor of sweet potato pies. Most have closed, but some are still hanging on, and Fishburger’s owners hope to be held in the same regard.
In fact, they are planning to have a mural painted inside to honor those businesses.
“We’re happy to be here,” Howard said. “We plan to hopefully have a legacy as long as theirs.”
In addition to the Fishburger salmon sandwich, the restaurant offers the OG Fish Sandwich, featuring fried tilapia, the Nashville Hot Chicken Sandwich and the Burger Burger — a combination of ground beef and brisket. The menu also includes Hand-cut Nashville Nuggets and wings that can be enhanced with a variety of sauces.
For dessert, the restaurant serves cheesecakes in multiple flavors, including peach cobbler, Snickers, sweet potato and oatmeal.
The staff also hints at possible vegan options in the future.
Behind the counter, it’s a family affair; Keyes’ aunt takes orders and his sister and mother can be found in the kitchen. So can girlfriend Elita Cash,
“We argue, but we love each other,” said Cash, 33, of the East Side. “We have a great time. And everyone that works here is really invested in the dream and the vision.”
Cash praised Keyes’ inventive recipes and welcoming personality.
“Randy’s just different,” she said. “He has a different heart and spirit. He attracts well, he manifests well, and he’s blessed. They love him.”
Keyes is complemented by Howard’s leadership abilities, according to Howard’s sister, Dajah, who also aspires to own a business.
“Seeing him not just saying what he’s going to do, but actually doing the work, is definitely very inspiring and motivating,” said Dajah Howard, 23, who currently lives on the East Side. “We’re not always in environments where we see that things are possible. I even have friends who are texting and calling me like, ‘I went to your brother’s restaurant. This is amazing.’ This is motivation for a lot of other people that he probably doesn’t even realize.”
And Tawny Nash isn’t the only repeat customer raving about Fishburger. Fellow chef Devante Crump said he has ordered wings three times in two weeks.
“I always supported Randy when he was working out of his house and bars,” said Crump, 29, of Milo-grogan, who operates Vante’s Kitchen out of a ghost kitchen in that area. “It was always good food.”
Ray Coleman said he has tried nearly everything on the menu.
“They’ve got a good following,” said Coleman, 43, of the East Side. “They’re always nice when I come in. Having a Black-owned business in this area is a plus, and it’s up to us to make sure that it survives.”
This story is part of the Dispatch’s Mobile Newsroom initiative, which is currently focused on Driving Park and surrounding neighborhoods. Visit our reporters at the Driving Park branch library. ethompson@dispatch.com @miss_ethompson