The Columbus Dispatch

Winter grandeur

WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT THE GRAND CANYON IN THE WINTER

- Roger Naylor Special to Arizona Republic | USA TODAY NETWORK

Imagine walking along the edge of the Grand Canyon without seeing another soul. Imagine skies so clear and sharp that mountains 100 miles away are visible. Imagine a blanket of snow in the forest and frosting the red rocks of the canyon walls. Now stop walking and just listen. ● Hear that hushed stillness? For a minute, the world is suspended. All that exists is you and the Earth’s most distinctiv­e scar. The canyon appears especially bewitching and luscious in the low angled light. ● Welcome to the wintertime version of Grand Canyon. ● It doesn’t matter whether you make regular trips to Grand Canyon National Park or if you only go every few years. Everyone should go at least once in the winter. ● Grand Canyon is a vastly different experience in December, January and February. But it does require some preparatio­n. Here’s what to know before you venture to the Big Ditch.

Is the North Rim open in winter?

We are only talking about the South Rim now. During winter, the higher elevation North Rim of Grand Canyon closes. It won’t reopen until May 15. The good news is that in the winter months, the South Rim essentiall­y becomes the North Rim.

All the reasons travelers revere the North Rim – such as fewer people, a quieter experience and a slower pace – are evident on the South Rim through the winter. Park attendance is at its lowest levels during January and February. There’s less traffic on the roads and the trails are emptier. The lack of crowds translates to a soothing tranquilit­y and solitude rarely experience­d in the summer.

It also becomes easier to secure lodging within the national park, and often at cheaper rates. Restaurant­s are less crowded. Backcountr­y permits are easier to obtain for those seeking even more adventure.

Can you hike in Grand Canyon in the winter?

Yes, the trails are open. And temperatur­es deep in the inner canyon, which can often be scorching in the summer, tend to be mild and pleasant this time of year. Amid the winter quiet, hikers can experience every subtle change in this moody gorge.

There’s also more to see. Visibility is greater. The air appears remarkably clear in winter, lacking the smoggy haziness that’s common in summer. Since the winter sun hangs lower in the sky, the colors feel richer in such soft light. Photograph­ers love this time of year for capturing sunrise and sunset images.

With so many positives, it sounds like the Grand Canyon should be packed in the winter. So what’s the catch?

The challenge is that it’s winter. And winter at 7,000 feet can mean cold temperatur­es, snow and ice. Storms can roll in quickly. Inclement weather may lead to road closures and can make footing treacherou­s on the hiking trails. It’s important to dress in layers to stay warm and dry. Keep emergency supplies in your vehicle and be prepared for winter driving conditions.

For hikers, the Rim Trail acts as the main artery snaking through the woods along the edge of the abyss for 13 miles. The path is mostly paved as it stretches from South Kaibab Trailhead all the way to Hermits Rest.

If you decide to go below the rim, Bright Angel and South Kaibab are the main corridor trails that drop into the depths. While any trail into the canyon should be considered strenuous, winter presents its own special challenge.

The upper reaches of the trails are often snow-covered and icy. Check conditions before setting out. Traction devices for hiking boots are available in many rimside shops. Trekking poles can also provide a little added safety.

Of the two trails, the South Kaibab will likely be less affected by the weather. It is more exposed and sunnier so any ice should not extend as far down as on Bright Angel.

What is there to do at Grand Canyon in the winter?

This is the perfect time to create a personal connection with one of the wonders of the world. Minus the hustle and bustle of the peak travel season, the canyon feels downright peaceful. Take advantage of that quiet expanse.

During winter the Hermit Road (Red Route) Shuttle is closed. Until March 1, the 7.5-mile Hermit Road is open to all vehicles. It’s a great section of the park to explore. Take a meandering drive west from the Village on Hermit Road past nine designated viewpoints.

Hopi Point and Mohave Point are popular viewing areas for sunrises and sunsets. Pima Point is one of the best places on the rim to see the Colorado River far below.

The road ends at distinctiv­e Hermits Rest, seemingly built from casual stacks of stone against a low knoll. Legendary architect Mary Colter designed the structure in 1914 to resemble an old miner’s cabin with a giant fireplace that crackles with sweet piñon logs in cooler weather. Today, Hermits Rest also has a gift shop, snack bar and restrooms.

At the other end of the park, Desert View Drive traces the canyon rim for 23 miles to the east entrance. Along the way are multiple overlooks, pullouts and picnic areas. Lipan Point affords incredible river views and a glimpse of the Unkar Delta. At Desert View, the trading post, market and gas station are open. So is the gift shop on the first floor of the Watchtower, but the upper portions of the tower remain closed.

Storms can be sudden and ferocious in Arizona during winter, dumping up to a foot of snow. Whiteout conditions and road closures are possible. Yet in between storms, long stretches of sunny days are common. Keep an eye on the weather when planning your trip and be prepared for inclement conditions.

If you do happen to be at Grand Canyon when snow is falling, congratula­tions. You are witnessing a sight not many visitors get to see. The pine trees are shrouded in white. The cliffs are mantled in snow. Flakes stream down. It is a pale ballet set against a steel sky, transformi­ng one world into another. How can something so silent make such music?

This is a snow day you’ll remember forever.

 ?? SCHUMACHER/THE REPUBLIC ROB ?? Visitors walk along the South Rim of Grand Canyon after a snowstorm on the first day of spring in 2020.
SCHUMACHER/THE REPUBLIC ROB Visitors walk along the South Rim of Grand Canyon after a snowstorm on the first day of spring in 2020.

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