Distillery District
Lexington’s offers food, music and, of course, bourbon
LEXINGTON, KY — Although known more, perhaps, for basketball and horses, Kentucky’s second-largest city also has a rich history of bourbon. And one of Lexington’s newest entertainment destinations was once one of the most famous and productive distilleries in the entire Bluegrass State.
The 25-acre Distillery District, as it’s called today, is located a little more than a mile outside downtown Lexington at the once and current site of the James E. Pepper Distillery about a three-hour drive from Columbus. The distillery had been abandoned for 50 years before the brand was resurrected, albeit in a more modest form.
The current iteration of James E. Pepper takes up just part of the footprint of the old distillery, the largest in the country after its construction in 1879. Occupying the balance of the old distillery and its auxiliary buildings are a number of other businesses that make the Distillery District a place where a visitor can easily pack an entire day full of food, libations, entertainment and more. Renovation of the district began in 2008, but the new Pepper distillery only began production in late 2017.
A lesson in bourbon, more
Visitors who take the distillery tour will hear the fascinating story of James E. Pepper, who went bust in the bourbon business twice, once before building his grand Lexington distillery and once after. The second time, he was bailed out by his equally fascinating wife, Ella, who made a fortune breeding and racing thoroughbred horses.
A promoter and flamboyant showman, James Pepper was also responsible for pushing reforms that helped improve and guarantee the quality of retail whiskey throughout the industry. He’s also credited with introducing the Old Fashioned cocktail to the world — not a bad way to be remembered.
Pepper died in an accident in 1906, and the original distillery burned in 1933. The distillery was rebuilt the following year, but ceased production in 1967.
The site and brand were abandoned for half a century, only to be reclaimed
by entrepreneur Amir Peay, a former bartender who got hooked on the history of Pepper whiskey and then acquired first the brand, and later the old distillery itself.
Tours also include a tasting of the distillery’s products, including Old Pepper
Rye and Bourbon.
Distillery District also offers dining
Town Branch Creek, which, after years of neglect, has also been cleaned up, runs directly behind the Distillery District and provides a delightful backdrop for al fresco dining or drinking at several district destinations, including Goodfellas Pizzeria, which also occupies part of the former distillery.
If your taste runs more toward ice cream than bourbon — or if, like me, you’re deeply invested in both — you absolutely cannot miss Crank & Boom Ice Cream Lounge, which grew from the really good ice cream produced at a Lexington Thai restaurant.
Craft beer and cider fans will also find plenty to engage their palates. Ethereal Brewing, which is also located in part of
the old distillery building, features traditional craft beers such as IPAS and witbiers and some interesting experimental suds as well, and has a pretty patio along the creek.
Fusion Brewing and Wise Bird Cider Co. are each located in a former rickhouse where bourbon was once stored for aging. Also in the old rickhouse is the Rickhouse Pub, gourmet coffee shop Brevede Coffee Co. and Relic, a funky retailer featuring vintage, rustic and reclaimed googaws.
Another tavern, The Break Room, is located, of course, in a building once used as the distillery’s break room, also now with creek-side seating.
Entertainment venue nearby
Across Old Frankfort Pike from the distillery proper is The Burl, an indoor/ outdoor entertainment venue in and around a former train depot built in 1926. The Burl books a wide variety of acts — on my most recent visit I saw a performance by legendary East LA rock and roots band Los Lobos.
Next door is the Burl Arcade, with pinball and throwback 1980s arcade games and a full-service bar of its own.
But wait — The Distillery District has even more bourbon! (In Kentucky, there’s always more bourbon.)
Barrel House Distilling is located, as you might guess, in the Pepper distillery’s former barrel house. The craft distiller shares the barrel house with Elkhorn Tavern, which offers craft cocktails featuring Barrel House spirits as well as good local tavern fare such as burgoo, a classic Kentucky-style stew made with beef, rabbit and elk.
What, you didn’t think a good Kentucky burgoo would leave out the elk, did you?
Steve Stephens is a freelance travel writer and photographer. Email him at sjstephensjr@gmail.com.