Take a trip to one of the nation’s beautiful state capitols
HARRISBURG, Pa. – Although sometimes host to ugly deeds, many of America’s state capitol
buildings are among the most beautiful edifices in the country. And Pennsylvania’s Capitol might be foremost among them, especially for fans of the extremely ornate. ● Indeed, some might opine that the capitol building in Harrisburg is a bit over the top. No expense was spared, certainly, as the building was opened in 1906 at a cost of $13 million – more than 400% over budget. (Some things never change.) ● Whatever financial machinations took place, however, no one can say that the state, at least from the vantage point of 2023, didn’t get its money’s worth.
Designed by Philadelphia architect Joseph Huston, the building borrows freely from several Renaissance traditions as well as from the Greek, Roman and Victorian English. At the building’s dedication, Teddy Roosevelt declared it “the handsomest building I ever saw.”
The Capitol is quite distinctive from the outside, with walls of white Vermont granite and a roof of green, glazed terra cotta tile.
The 17-foot Italian Renaissance-inspired bronze entry doors are flanked by two groups of statues comprising 27 life-sized figures representing “Labor and Love/the Unbroken Law” and “The Burden of Life/ The Broken Law.” (I’m surprised Netflix hasn’t turned them into a streaming series yet.)
Inside, the building is outfitted with magnificent stained-glass windows, terrazzo floors, monumental paintings and marble statues, staircases and walls.
An architecture or history buff could probably spend an entire day just examining the massive entry and rotunda, topped by a 272-foot dome inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. A marble staircase and three-tiered gallery reflect a similar design at the Paris Opera House. And eight large murals surrounding the rotunda depict aspects of Pennsylvania history.
But I recommend the free, 45-minute tour of the Capitol that takes visitors into the grandest of the building’s 600-plus rooms including the House and Senate chambers and the Supreme Court.
The Senate chamber might almost justify a career in politics. Senators sit at original desks made of mahogany from Belize. The room is illuminated by tremendous bronze and glass chandeliers and the glow from 10 stained-glass windows featuring allegorical figures such as “Abundance,” “Commerce” and “Militia.”
In the House chamber, the Capitol’s largest mural, “The Apotheosis of Pennsylvania,” located directly behind the House Speaker’s podium, depicts men who had a profound impact on the state such as Pennsylvania founder William Penn, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Paine and Civil War general George Meade. More gorgeous (and Brobdingnagian) chandeliers hang from the ceiling and another 14 stained glass windows circle the room.
Perhaps my favorite feature of the Capitol is the green-hued stained-glass dome of the Supreme Court chamber, rising above 16 paintings by Pennsylvania artist Violet Oakley depicting various aspects of the law and judicial history.
A welcome center in the Capitol’s East Wing also offers information about the workings of Pennsylvania state government (which translates to other states,
too!) and an interactive display that allows visitors to debate and register their opinion on a current issue. There’s also an 8.5-foot Lego version of the statue “Commonwealth,” a 17-foot-tall female figure that stands atop the Capitol dome.
Harrisburg also has a number of other interesting attractions for visitors, including the National Civil War Museum (nationalcivilwarmuseum.org/).
I always make a point of stopping at Midtown Scholar Bookstore (midtownscholar.com/), one of the country’s great independent bookstores, with a huge collection of new, used and rare books attractively displayed across six levels in historic commercial buildings right across from the Broad Street Market, the oldest continuously operating public market in the country.
The market, opened in 1860, also makes a nice stop, with a variety of meats, cheeses and fresh vegetables as well as ready-to-eat food, plus interesting local crafts and curiosities.
Another good place for lunch or dinner is next to Broad Street Market at Millworks Restaurant, Brewery and Art Gallery. The restaurant is located in an old millworks and uses reclaimed lumber as part of its decor. But the real reason to visit is the exquisite woodfired pizzas made with local ingredients including organic stone-milled flour, and the very good sitebrewed beers.
Don’t forget to toast Lady “Commonwealth.”
For more information about things to see and do in the area, go to visithersheyharrisburg.org.
Steve Stephens is a freelance travel writer and photographer. Email him at sjstephensjr@gmail.com.