Just plain fine fare
Good Middle Eastern food served generously
A reader asked whether I planned to review Jerusalem Market, so I searched the archives to send her the review I was certain I would find. But I didn’t, nor did I find it when I looked under the names of others who might have reviewed it in years past.
While I’ve eaten at the restaurant and shopped at the market since it opened, somehow I’ve failed to review it. So I had a stern word with myself, then set out to make amends.
We are all creatures of habit, even those of us who make a point to try new restaurants when we go to dinner or new recipes when we cook. I often turn to Summer Avenue for quick and familiar meals. It’s easier than fighting traffic and crowds along the Poplar corridor, and the price is right in the string of ethnic eateries (along with the Pancake Shop and Central BBQ) that stretch along the East Memphis leg of the street.
Jerusalem Market is a store with a halal meat counter, a small produce section, a refrigerated and freezer section, and several overflowing rows of Middle Eastern staples such as olives, pickles and olive oil, plus assorted spices, condiments, candies and decadent shortbread cookies stuffed with dates. Fresh pita bread is baked at the store daily, and each morning trays of pita topped with spicy ground beef and herbs, along with toasted pita, are set out for sale for about $1 apiece.
You’ll never buy pita bread in a grocery store after you’ve tasted it fresh-baked, and the bell on the front door of the market rings frequently as customers dash in just to pick up a pack of the pita, conveniently located just by the register. You can grab a pack on the way out, as you get to the restaurant through the store. There’s not much to be said for the ambience, as it’s simply a row of deep banquettes on two walls with plain tables pulled up to them and plain chairs on the opposite side. Arabic-language television broadcasts through the dining room (it could be one of many satellite channels, owner Ismal Odetalleh, from Jordan, said).
It’s really about the food here, which is very good and also served generously. Appetizers are certainly made to be split, and those we tried are large enough to be a meal for one. The hummus is near-perfect, suffering only a slight lack of salt (easy to fix). It’s spread across the plate in hills and dales, and deep, green-gold olive oil fills the valleys. A spicy dollop of green pepper mash adorns the center, and there’s plenty of fresh pita delivered for scooping it to your mouth. A complementary plate of olives and sliced pickles provide a perfect acidic bite. Want to take it higher? Add meat.
Baba ghanoush, an eggplant and tahini spread, is also excellent at Jerusalem Market — though like the hummus, it could use a touch of salt (and please, a little less than ideal is always better than the irreparable too much). There’s a tendency to grill eggplant to the point of smokiness for baba ghanoush these days, but the cook here resists.
The falafel I tried most recently was quite good, crisp but not hard outside, tender and flavorful in-
The generous serving of hummus from the Jerusalem Market and Restaurant has olive oil and relish.
Ismal Odetallah (left) and Jaafar Odetallah manage the Jerusalem Market and Restaurant.