The Commercial Appeal - Go Memphis
A must-try: Fish Pudding at Calvary’s Lenten Waffle Shop
I have gotten the strangest looks when I’ve asked friends, “Have you tried the Fish Pudding at Calvary Episcopal Church’s Lenten Waffle Shop?”
Most people turn up their nose — which, if I am being, honest was the first response I had years ago when I went to the annual Waffle Shop for the first time. I am sure a vision of a gelatinous pile of mush goes through their minds like it did mine.
But, boy, I’m glad I gave it a try.
The Fish Pudding is anything but what I expected. It’s a classic Southern casserole made with flaky white fish and topped with a buttery crispy cracker crust. A dollop of handmade mayonnaise adds a finishing touch. It’s a flavorful, yet mild, fish dish.
It’s been on the Waffle Shop menu since day one. That was 94 years ago in 1928. Generations of Memphians have made this dish, as well as the annual pop-up restaurant’s made-to-order waffles and chicken hash, an almostcentury-old tradition.
So how did a dish that does not resemble pudding in any way get that name?
Madge Deacon, who has been a Waffle Shop volunteer since 2015 and whose mother once served as the church’s archivist, had the answer.
“Fish Pudding is a tradition. That’s where the name comes in. Pudding is an old English term for casserole. It’s all about tradition,” she said.
Deacon kindly took the time to double-check the history, reviewing church archives and old Waffle Shop menus.
“It has been … and will always be … Fish Pudding,” she said, joking that if the name was changed she is sure that there would be women coming out of their graves to complain.
Past menus and recipes show that over the years white fishes such as snapper, flounder, haddock and cod have been used. Today, the iconic dish is made using Mississippi-farm raised catfish from Lake’s Catfish in Dundee.
The basic recipe combines the fish with lemon juice, sherry, onion and what Deacon describes as a “series of spices.” Eggs and milk serve as the binder. A buttery cracker crumb crust tops the dish.
It’s served warm with a dollop of Calvary’s famous homemade mayonnaise. (Fun fact: Calvary volunteers make almost 350 gallons of mayonnaise every Lent. It’s used to garnish the majority of the dishes served.)
The Waffle Shops serves 288 servings of fish pudding every Friday during Lent. A serving of Fish Pudding ($14) comes with potatoes, slaw and corn bread. It is
served on Fridays only.
This year, the Waffle Shop is open Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. A Waffle Shop-like experience is offered each Wednesday from 5:15-6:15 p.m. before the live podcast recordings with Lenten Preaching Series speakers. The final day is April 8.
In the past, guests to the Waffle Shop sat at community tables, often being sat next to strangers that more often than not became friends by the end of the meal. Due to COVID-19 concerns, seating this year will primarily be at smaller two- or four-top tables.
“It is amazing how everything is done by volunteers,” Deacon said. “The Waffle Shop is truly one of the most amazing community service projects in town. People from all over take time to be part of this each and every year.”
The Lenten Preaching Series includes a variety of speakers from various churches and synagogues across Memphis. If you choose to attend, the services are from 12:05 to 12:30 p.m., allowing attendees to eat before or after the talk. The speaker schedule is available at calvarymemphis.org.
Parties of 10 or more can make a reservation by calling (901) 525-6602.
And if you are still not sure about Fish Pudding, a visit to the Waffle Shop for dishes like Waffles & Chicken Hash, the Calvary Salad Plate (Chicken Salad, Tomato Aspic, Shrimp Mousse and Pear with Cottage Cheese) and the Tennessee Bourbon Pie is worth the trip.
Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler
@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer.