The Commercial Appeal

Patagonia’s eco-focus boosts sales for privately held outdoor retailer

- By Hugo Martin

LOS ANGELES — High- end outdoor clothier and gear maker Patagonia Inc. is out to prove that a company can generate strong sales while being nearly fanatical about environmen­tal concerns.

The Ventura, Calif., company was the first major clothier to make f leece jackets out of recycled bottles. Nearly a third of the power for its headquarte­rs and adjoining child- care center comes from solar. And it donates 1 percent of its sales to environmen­tal causes.

With Patagonia being a privately held company, its finances are not public, but it says it’s riding a growth curve. It opened 14 new stores last year, bringing to 88 its wholly owned retail outlets throughout the world. Executives said the company had $540 million in sales in the 12 months that ended in April, an increase of more than 30 percent over the same period a year earlier.

Furthermor­e, they said, Patagonia has doubled revenue and tripled profit since 2008.

But is it fair to say that the environmen­tal dedication of the company is a key to its claimed success? Patagonia executives say yes. Chief executive Casey Sheahan said customers were willing to pay $25 for a T-shirt, $20 for wool socks and $180 for a light jacket because they knew Patagonia inflicted less damage on the environmen­t than other clothing makers did.

And, he said, other companies are catching on.

“I think a lot of big companies are

doing things like this because it’s a better way of doing business,” he said as he strolled company headquarte­rs where clothing designers shuffle around in f lip - flops while other workers shape surfboards that they test off a nearby beach.

Patagonia co -founded the Sustainabl­e Apparel Coalition, a group of retailers and clothiers, including Target, Wal-Mart and Levi Strauss, that is committed to slashing the environmen­tal impact of their operations.

But analysts said Patagonia’s eco -friendly philosophy was probably only one factor in the company’s ability to grow.

More important, said Richard Jaffe, a retail and apparel analyst with investment firm Stifel Nicolaus & Co., is that Patagonia has a reputation for making products a cut above much of the competitio­n.

“They are doing things incrementa­lly better,” Jaffe said.

Patagonia may also be benefiting from an overall increase in sales in outdoor goods across the country. During the recession, industry experts say, many Americans turned to outdoor recreation as a cheaper alternativ­e to diversions such as foreign travel.

And Patagonia also benefited from some moves it made.

The company previously concentrat­ed on rugged clothing and gear for endeavors such as hiking and rock climbing. But about eight years ago it introduced a line of surf-inspired clothing and beach products, including surfboards, that have proved popular.

Patagonia also cut overhead by consolidat­ing some global factories and putting more focus on Internet sales.

But even Patagonia’s founder and sole owner, Yvon Chouinard, 73, said the company was not likely to keep up its current growth pace.

Chouinard, who began forging his own climbing gear in the 1950s and turned that into an outdoor clothing business, called Patagonia’s recent jump in revenue an aberration, fueled partly by the recession.

Even though Patagonia is hardly a discount line, he said he believed consumers spent more in tough times on quality outdoor equipment and clothing that last longer. Also, Patagonia promises to repair or replace clothes that don’t meet customer satisfacti­on.

But no matter how the business fares in the future, Chouinard wants the commitment to the environmen­t to continue. In fact, he took a step to try to ensure that it does, even beyond his demise.

On Jan. 3, the first day of business this year, Chouinard marched into the office of the secretary of state in Sacramento to be the first head of a company in California to file “benefit corporatio­n” papers.

Traditiona­lly, for-profit companies are required to serve the interests of shareholde­rs above all. But a law passed by the legislatur­e last year created the category of “benefit corporatio­n” to allow such companies to adopt policies that “create a material positive impact on society and the environmen­t.” The law took effect this year.

It was designed to protect a company from shareholde­r lawsuits saying that environmen­tal efforts dilute the value of stock.

Chouinard said he made the move so that if Patagonia became a public company after he and his wife passed on, it would continue to donate to environmen­tal causes without fear of being sued by shareholde­rs.

“Now I can say what our values are, and that forever the company must continue to donate 1 percent of sales,” he said.

 ?? Ricardo Dearatanha/los Angeles Times/mct ?? Quality-control employee Nellie Castillo counts stitches per inch on a pair of pants at Patagonia headquarte­rs in Ventura, Calif. The company has a reputation for well-made goods, a retail analyst said.
Ricardo Dearatanha/los Angeles Times/mct Quality-control employee Nellie Castillo counts stitches per inch on a pair of pants at Patagonia headquarte­rs in Ventura, Calif. The company has a reputation for well-made goods, a retail analyst said.
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