One for Julia
100th anniversary of chef’s birth provides perfect opportunity for alternative French stew
Because today is the 100th anniversary of Julia Child’s birth, I wanted to cook something French to honor her and the inspiration she was to me. I didn’t want to do anything complicated, nor heavy or rich this time of year. Paging through “Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 2,” I found her recipe for chicken bouillabaisse, a variation on the classic seafood stew from Marseille in Provence, France.
The seafood version is typically prepared for a large number of people, with a minimum of three different types of seafood. Chicken also works well with all the flavorings of the classic seafood version, is easily adapted to two servings and is more budget-friendly — especially if you use thighs and drumsticks as I did.
If you don’t care for dark chicken meat, split chicken breasts on the bone will also work. Cooking chicken on the bone results in juicier chicken and a more flavorful dish overall. Remove the skin before (or after) cooking to make the dish more healthful.
When working with leeks, be sure to clean them well, as they can be gritty. Cut in half lengthwise, slice, then place in a bowl of water. Move them around a bit with your hand and the dirt and grit will sink to the bottom of the bowl. Remove with a slotted spoon, and they’re clean and ready to add to your dish.
The rich broth of a bouillabaisse always contains saffron. It’s expensive, but a little goes a long way, and too much can overwhelm your dish.
To remove the orange peel from a fresh orange, use a vegetable peeler. Be careful to avoid as much of the white pith as possible — it’s bitter.
A bouillabaisse is always served with a rouille, which translates to “rust” because of the color. It’s a thick garlicky sauce that often includes breadcrumbs and some type of chili pepper. However, there doesn’t seem to be a definitive recipe. The one included here, adapted from Saveur.com, is easy and tasty. Crusty bread served alongside to soak up the rich broth also is a must.
According to Julia, this dish also is delicious served cold. Refrigerate for several hours, then scrape off any fat from the surface. Serve the chicken as is; the cooking stock will set lightly like a jellied consommé. Bon appétit! Carol Borchardt owns A Thought For Food Personal Chef Service. She creates diet and palate-specific meals for clients in their homes. Find out more at athoughtforfood.com.