Brooks Pharm2Fork dishes up fresh favorites
Mac Edwards was no overnight sensation. Folks still associate him with McEwen’s, but before he opened the Downtown restaurant (which he later sold to Bert Smythe and John Littlefield), Edwards sold booze for Star Distributors, worked at the Half Shell, managed Gonzales and Gertrude’s, and all sorts of other things.
In recent years, he opened The Farmer (in 2011, when it was called The Elegant Farmer), which he moved last year to Chickasaw Oaks Village; he opened the short-lived Firefly in Brighton with Jennifer Dickerson and then the stillstrong Chandelier with her in Jackson; and now, after delay upon delay, he’s opened the doors at Brooks Pharm2Fork in the Collierville Square.
A glance at the menu, particularly at lunch, is a dead giveaway that the guy in charge here also has The Farmer, as there are plenty of the same dishes available. Dinner is more varied, but you’ll find old friends here, too, even if plated in a different way. And — hallelujah! — there’s a full bar. Take note before we even get started: The house wine is the best deal in town. It’s La Veille Ferme, they have the rosé (a staple in my fridge door, but the white and red are also available), and it’s $5 per glass, $10 per half carafe or $20 per carafe. Belly up.
Lunch
I took a look over the menu while I waited for my dining partners, and I’d already picked out the three I wanted to order: salmon patties, pot roast and grilled catfish. When the server came to the table, she told me the vegetable of the day and mentioned that the most popular items on the menu were — guess what? — salmon patties, pot roast and grilled catfish. It made ordering simple.
The salmon patties are excellent, made using real salmon instead of canned but otherwise true to Edwards’ mom’s recipe. A nice remoulade will come on top unless you ask for it on the side, so beware that little caloric splurge. The mac and cheese is one of the best versions in town, and it’s up against heavy competition. It’s made with penne pasta, and the sauce is abundantly cheesy, creamy and gooey. There’s no bread crumb topping, but it’s still superb. I shared, but I admit I ate more than I should’ve for a healthy meal.
The greens are also up there with the tops in town. The collards (I had them on recent visits, but you might get a different green, depending on availability) are cooked until tender, but they hold their shape and are well seasoned, a bit spicy and sweet.
I’d put the pot roast up against any grandma’s, including my own. Hers was always chuck roast, but at Brooks Pharm2Fork it’s brisket, and it was cooked until all the good things happened — the ligaments and tendons melted, rendering the meat fall-apart tender and imparting the rich flavor that comes not from seasoning but from low and slow cooking. And the catfish? It’s easy to see why all three dishes are popular. It’s grilled and served in a slightly smoky tomato broth, simple enough to flavor the fish but allow the clean taste to come through. Take note that Edwards is in charge here, but the credit for this good food goes to chef Joe Rawlings and sous chef Molly Bilsky.
Dinner
Scallops are among my least favorite items to order in a restaurant because they are so often improperly prepared. I don’t care how fancy your place is or how much you charge, if they’re not cleaned, they’re going to have grit. If they’re not dry when they go in the skillet, they won’t be seared. If they’re overcooked by mere seconds, they’re rubbery. In short too much can go wrong. Ordering them on a busy Saturday night is particularly risky, but I chanced it, and these were perfect, served with a cauliflower puree and a light sauce of browned butter with almonds and currants. I traded my asparagus for my friend’s okra. She found it slightly slimy; I didn’t. But her redfish, a special of the night, was overcooked, the sole disappointment in my recent visits.
Country fried steak with a rich mushroom gravy and mashed potatoes was also on point, though I took only a taste or two. It’s more than I’d eat for dinner, but I’d love to split this for a meal if we suffer through another cold snap this year. It’s wintry food, comforting and hearty.
The coconut cake comes from Sugaree’s, but go on and splurge if you want something sweet. We split it three ways, so it was relatively guilt-free and, frankly, worth every calorie.
More
It says so in the name, but like The Farmer, Brooks Pharm2Fork is a farmto-table restaurant. Local farmers and vendors are listed on the menu, and it’s updated seasonally. It’s housed in the former Brooks Pharmacy, hence the name, and cozily decorated with Mason jar lighting, colorful pieces of large art and nostalgic objects such as a nut-warmer and popcorn dispenser found in the attic. Service is very friendly, quick and attentive. The space is small and a little close — you can expect noise, more in the main dining room than in the bar, which also has tables — if it’s crowded. For what it’s worth, it seems like it’s always hopping — and for good reason.