This updated dish isn’t your father’s steak
As a butcher’s daughter, I learned early on the definition of phrases like dry-aged beef (hung on a rack to dry for several weeks to concentrate flavor and tenderize the beef) and wet-aged beef (typically aged in a vacuum-sealed bag to retain moisture.)
My father’s approach to cooking a great steak, whether using wet- or dryaged beef, was to keep it simple: a slight coating of olive oil, salt, pepper and, if possible, allow most of the high heat to come from a top element like a salamander broiler, which allows the juices to drain down through the beef and not onto the pan.
That’s how I was taught, and that’s how I cooked steaks most of my life. But in the past decade, the idea of rubbing steak with coffee and chocolate to match a steak’s rich, beefy flavor has become a popular method.
Add to it bold spices like toasted and ground coriander seeds and it becomes anything but “your father’s steak.” Rather than the traditional baked-potato accompaniment, a spicy tomato chutney is spooned over the top of the steak, making this dish a simple, elegant and complete main meal – and a real butcher’s daughter delight!
Spiced rubbed steaks with tomato chutney
For the tomato chutney:
2 tablespoons olive oil 2 large cloves fresh garlic, minced fine 2 shallots, sliced thin 2 cups cherry tomatoes, sliced in half 1 tablespoon sugar 1⁄4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
For the steaks and rub:
2 tablespoons ground coriander (or whole seeds toasted in dry skillet and ground fine)
2 tablespoons instant espresso (or finely ground coffee)
2 tablespoons kosher salt 4 teaspoons light brown sugar
4 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil (for grilling) 4 tender steaks of your choice (like New York, T-bone, rib-eye or flat iron)
To make tomato chutney: In a saucepan over medium heat, sauté garlic and sliced shallots in oil for 2 minutes. Do not burn. Add tomatoes, sugar, red pepper flakes and parsley. Simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened.
Add salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and set chutney aside.
Make rub: If toasting coriander seeds, heat a small dry skillet. Add whole coriander seeds and toss or stir frequently until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Cool and grind in spice mill or using a mortar and pestle. In a medium bowl, mix together ground coriander, coffee, salt, brown sugar, cocoa powder and pepper. Prepare a grill or grill pan for medium-high heat by lightly oiling pan. Pat steaks dry. Season steaks generously on both sides with rub. Grill steaks, turning occasionally, until lightly charred and cooked to desired doneness, 8-10 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes, then slice against the grain. Serve with tomato chutney.