Fancy’s Fish House brings riverfront dining back to Downtown Memphis
Riverfront dining has returned to Memphis. When Fancy’s Fish House opened April 8, it not only brought delicious seafood, but also sweeping views of the Mississippi River to Downtown Memphis. h The restaurant is a concept developed and operated by the Carlisle Restaurant Group and is the first of its concepts to open at the One Beale development. h Expect to find chef-inspired favorites with fresh daily caught fish, a lavish raw bar and signature dishes from the grill — all served in a dining room with a casual, old Florida fish house vibe. h “We will offer really high-end seafood and Southern staples, but in a refined, casual, not-so-serious establishment,” said Chance Carlisle, CEO of Carlisle Restaurant Group.
“When I think of Beale Street, I think of barbecue and beer. But when you visit other cities like New Orleans, their entertainment districts are always a blend of really nice restaurants and joint establishments. We hope with this restaurant, and ones to come, that we will expand the entertainment district.”
Fresh seafood and more
Walk in the front door, and you know you are in a seafood restaurant. A wraparound raw bar filled with fresh whole fish, oysters, and boiled shrimp, crab claws and lobster sets the tone for what is guaranteed to be a fish lover’s delight. Chefs busily prepare ice chilled shellfish plates (and towers) to be presented to guests.
A rotating selection of oysters (one each from the West, East and Gulf coasts) will be featured at all times. A mignonette made with a Spanish red wine vinegar, a citrusy cocktail sauce and the house “Fancy’s Sauce” (a tasty mélange of a remoulade and tartar sauce) are all accompaniments made in-house.
Chef Keith Potter heads the kitchen. Originally from Chicago, Potter spent the past 15 years working at restaurants in Chicago. He worked in the kitchens of famed chefs such as Bill Kim, Paul Virant and Ryan Laroche, before becoming the chef of Cindy’s at the historic Chicago Athletic Association Hotel. Potter moved to Memphis last year to work at Hyatt Centric, also part of One Beale.
As Potter describes items on his opening menu, his commitment to detail and freshness come shining through.
The ever-changing “Chef ’s Crudo” on the opening menu features a salmon belly from Sixty South, a sustainable salmon farm nestled inside Alberto de Agostini National Park in Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia. The fish is brined in salt and sugar with toasted coriander, pink peppercorn and lime zest. It’s served with an avocado mousse with a tomato mignonette studded with very finely chopped Fresno chiles and cilantro stems.
“It’s cold, clean yet fatty and acidic all at the same time,” Potter said. “It’s a playful starter to kick off a meal.”
The Little Gem Caesar is a dish that Carlisle calls a “surprise favorite.” “I normally don’t eat anchovies,” he said. “But I do on this dish.”
Potter said for this salad he uses fresh, wild-caught and lightly cured anchovies. One bite and you realize these aren’t your everyday canned anchovies. There is not a hint of fishiness. Crisp hearts of baby gem lettuce are topped with a creamy roasted garlic Caesar, Old Bay-infused gluten-free bread crumbs and fresh herbs and lemon zest.
“It’s all about using high-quality ingredients,” Potter explained of why this salad is a standout.
For entrees, you will find an assortment of offerings such as Alaskan Halibut served with Little Neck Clams, a whole grilled American Red Snapper (a portion that serves two) and Maryland Crab Cakes.
A filet of that same imported Sixty South salmon is cooked to perfection and served over a bed of Carolina Gold Rice from Marsh Hen Mill in South Carolina flavored with butter, lemon, fresh herbs, spring peas and tender asparagus. A Deviled Egg Vinaigrette (which Potter describes as a play on a classic French Sauce Gribiche) ties it all together.
Land lovers will find dishes like a Center-cut Filet Mignon, a Cajun Chicken Pasta and a Wagyu burger.
Carlisle said a lot of thought went into adding Hand Battered Chicken Tenders to the menu. “We wanted to make sure our menu was approachable for everyone. If you have great chicken tenders, then you have a date night if one person doesn’t like fish,” he said.
Potter couldn’t just put a plain chicken tender on the menu. He marinates his tenders for two days in a brine made of buttermilk, pickle juice and a ranch dressing spice blend.
The bar offers a nice selection of wines (primarily from California) and Memphis-made beers on tap. Bar and Guest Services Manager Zori Holman has created a playful collection of handcrafted cocktails that includes such options as a Blackberry Gin Bramble, a Chair Tea Old Fashioned and a “Smokin’ Out the Window” grilled pineapple margarita.
River views, fishing reels and a Florida room
Construction on the 5,600-squarefoot restaurant began in the fall. In addition to indoor dining, a 2,000-squarefoot patio offers Fancy’s Fish diners a chance to dine al fresco. A “Florida room” off the bar has windows that can be opened on days when the weather is nice. The restaurant can seat about 140 indoors, and another 30 on the patio.
Every attention to detail was made to the dining room that has spacious windows overlooking the Mississippi River.
Carlisle Development Co. Director of Design Jessica Elvert went to such lengths as to procure dozens of vintage fishing reels that line the dining room wall. Oars and flags from different islands in the Caribbean add to the nautical touch. Even the bar seating is a standout. Comfortable wide seating, cushioned leather chairs invite guests to sit a spell, especially with a foot railing added to the side of the bar for guests’ comfort.
If wondering about the name, Carlisle is happy to share the story.
“We were in Hardy, Arkansas, to go rafting, and my wife, Jessica, walked out with jewelry on. Our friend started calling her ‘Fancy’ all weekend, and the name stuck,” Carlisle said. “Food can be fancy, yet still fun. That’s the mood we wanted to have here.”
Look for a second Carlisle Restaurant Group concept to open in 2023. The Wm. C. Ellis & Sons historic machine shop is currently being transformed into an elevated prime chop house called Amelia Gene’s.
“It’s named after my daughter, who was named after my dad,” Carlisle said. (Carlisle’s father, Gene Carlisle, founded Carlisle Restaurant Group. He died in 2015.)
The restaurant is open for dinner only, but expect weekend brunch to be offered in the late summer. Lunch may also be added later in the year.
Insider Tip: Because of the construction in the area, finding Fancy’s Fish House can be a bit hard. The restaurant’s entrance is on the north side of The Landing Residences apartment building. Complimentary valet will be available on the Wagner Place side of the building.
Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler @commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer.