The Commercial Appeal

‘Top Chef ’ is still cooking after all these years

- Kelly Lawler

Please pack your knives and go.

How many times has Padma Lakshmi, the ever-chic host and judge of Bravo’s reality institutio­n “Top Chef,” uttered those words to eager, hungry chefs competing for a cash prize and culinary glory?

At least a few hundred at this point, as the cooking competitio­n series begins its 20th season (Thursdays, 9 EST/PST). Since its debut in 2006, “Chef ” has made Lakshmi a household name, launched the careers of dozens of chefs, weathered a pandemic that brought the restaurant industry to its knees and created entertaini­ng controvers­y out of pea soup and risotto. And in some ways, it feels like“chef”isjustgett­ingstarted.

As it heads to London for a first-time “World All-stars” competitio­n in Season 20, we look back on how “Chef” has cooked up a recipe for reality longevity. dropped its cattiness, housemates drama and juvenile antics, which were a reality-tv prerequisi­te in the early 2000s. Somewhere along the way, the show transition­ed from merely dropping its negativity to being a force for creative prowess, a showcase for competency and greatness. As fun as it is to watch judge Tom Colicchio roast a contestant who under-seasoned his dish, it’s far more enjoyable to watch the hardened chef’s face light up with joy when he tastes something incredible. That is a far cry from the time in Season 2 when one of the contestant­s tried to forcibly shave another’s head.

As the series gained in popularity and acclaim within the food industry, the caliber of chefs entering the competitio­n dramatical­ly increased. It started with sous chefs, line cooks and other young whippersna­ppers ready to get their hands dirty in pursuit of prize money and fame. But recent seasons have been populated by executive chefs, many of whom already own their own restaurant­s. The better the chefs, the better the food, and they have created some truly delectable, mouth-watering creations over the years.

“Chef” has also responded to changes in the food world and the greater zeitgeist. The series has gotten far better at not exoticizin­g foods from non-white cultures and developed a greater respect for them. A high point was the quarantine­d Season 18 in Portland, Oregon, which celebrated Pan-african cuisine – a notable blind spot in past seasons – and indigenous foods, with a dinner attended by members of the Confederat­ed Tribes of the Umatilla. Bringing chefs together from around the world in Season 20 is a culminatio­n of this effort to recognize more than just the French and Italian staples that make up so many cookbooks.

In 2023, “Chef” is a well-oiled machine. The producers and judges – including Lakshmi, Colicchio and Gail Simmons – know their beats and their barbs. The contestant­s have all done this before. All that’s left is to see who can come out on top for the 20th time.

Please, “Chef,” don’t pack those knives or go anywhere.

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