A rose by any other name
Take a trip through history and culture in and around Norwich
TThere is considerable debate as to how Norwich, a southeastern Connecticut city with a population of about 40,000, came to be known by the grand moniker “the Rose of New England.” Was it a compliment from Henry Ward Beecher, or a nod to the city’s flower-like hills?
Whatever the truth, as you explore the Rose City, you might begin to suspect that the nickname refers to Norwich’s many layers of history, culture, and natural beauty, which, like the petals of a rose, fully blossom in the summer heat.
There are many ways to explore this river city. Start downtown, where dramatic topography meets equally striking architecture. Here, the Yantic and Shetucket rivers flow into the Thames at Norwich Harbor. From a public landing built in 1648, the harbor grew into a prosperous deep-water seaport and transportation hub. Today, it boasts a marina and waterfront park where people and waterbirds alike come to relax by the riverfront.
From the harbor, the streets climb towards the city’s commercial center. Here you’ll find more than 100 distinctive historic buildings, like the ornate 1870 City Hall, as well as many of Norwich’s diverse eateries and cultural institutions. Keep an eye out for the more ephemeral expressions of local artistry, like murals, several of which incorporate the city’s ever-present rose motif.
To get a sense of the distinct neighborhoods that comprise this multifaceted municipality, head to Norwichtown, where the first English inhabitants of the area settled in a small agricultural community in 1659. The area around Norwichtown Green is no longer rural, but it is attractive and historically significant, with several preserved 18th century homes as well as buildings like the 1782 Dr. Daniel Lathrop School, now the Norwich Heritage and Regional Visitors’ Center, and the diminutive Joseph Carpenter Silversmith Shop, built c. 1772. Venture up Old Cemetery Lane to Old Norwichtown
Cemetery, a tranquil resting place for many notable Connecticuters of centuries past.
A later period in Norwich’s development is preserved in Taftville, a former company town built in the 1860s around a textile mill. Enterprising Norwich residents had long manufactured various goods, from paper to clocks to nails to chocolate. But by the 19th century, sprawling factories, employing Irish, French Canadian, and other immigrants, had sprung up around the city, taking advantage of Norwich’s powerful rivers. Today, the massive brick Ponemah Mill has been preserved as an apartment building, and the neighborhood still feels like a place apart.
To get a deeper feel for Norwich’s past, follow a self-guided walking tour. The Norwich Historical Society has several routes, called Walk Norwich Trails, of varying lengths and difficulties. One focuses on infamous native son Benedict Arnold (and other Norwich residents who made more patriotic contributions during the Revolutionary War period.) Another illuminates the rich African American history of Norwich, including the work of local leaders like abolitionist and journalist David Ruggles. Yet another honors the heritage of the Mohegan people and their famous Sachem, Uncas, who figures so prominently in early Connecticut history.
The latter trail passes a local must-see: Yantic Falls, where the Yantic River plunges 40 feet over a dam. One story holds that in a 1643 battle, Mohegan warriors chased their Narragansett counterparts to the brink, where they jumped and fell to their death. Today, the area is a peaceful historic district centered around an old brick mill complex. Visitors can observe the powerful falls from the pedestrian walkway above or the grassy area below.
Another must-see, at least for art lovers, is the Slater Memorial Museum. Often described as a “hidden gem,” this small museum’s permanent collections include an impressive display of plaster casts of famed sculptures from antiquity, paintings and objects representing centuries of Norwich history, and works of art from around the world.
Before leaving the Rose City, make your way to Mohegan Park and step beneath a rose-covered trellis to stroll between the 2,500 rose bushes of the Veterans Memorial Rose Garden. This small but lovely garden, dedicated in 1948, has been maintained by the City of Norwich ever since. Here, the Rose of New England fully lives up to its name.
A trip to Norwich also provides a perfect opportunity to discover what the surrounding towns, which often fly under the tourist radar, have to offer.
If Norwich piqued your Revolutionary War curiosity, check out Lebanon, called the “Heartbeat of the Revolution.” Lebanon Green, itself a point of interest thanks to its remarkable state of preservation as agricultural land, is surrounded by historic homes and museums that tell the stories of noteworthy locals and visitors with names like Trumbull, Washington and Rochambeau.
If you’re hungry, grab some homemade ice cream from a no-frills stand on a farm complete with grazing cows at Buttonwood Farms in Griswold. Time your visit right and you’ll also get to see (and purchase) the sunflowers the farm grows each summer to benefit the Make-A-Wish Foundation of Connecticut.
For a dash of glitz, you can’t beat the state’s two casinos, both located just minutes from downtown Norwich. Beyond the slot machines, restaurants, and bars, you can enjoy some discount shopping at Tanger Outlets at Foxwoods Resort Casino in Ledyard, or marvel at the striking design, inspired by Mohegan culture, of Mohegan Sun in Uncasville.
For a contrast from the city, head to North Stonington, where the walkable North Stonington Village Historic District retains many features of an early 19th century village. Preserved historic homes and churches, as well as a oneroom schoolhouse, a former grist mill, and other details, make for a scenic stop.
Or, if you’re inspired to make your day trip a weekend getaway, Norwich is an ideal jumping-off point for a drive along Route 169. This National Scenic Byway runs almost 40 miles through some of the prettiest parts of Connecticut’s Quiet Corner.