The Day

Sweeping away gender-specific toys

- By HIROKO TABUCHI

Aliceana Belling marched past the rows of pink princess dresses at her localWal-Mart last month and headed straight to the superhero outfits.

She mulled the options for Halloween. Iron Man? Spider-Man? The Hulk?

Then she saw the Captain America suit, shiny shield and all.

“I can fly in the air outside!” Aliceana, 3, said from her home in Fond du Lac, Wisconsin, where she plans to go trick-or-treating as the Marvel Comics superhero this Halloween. “I’m going to save dogs!”

Aliceana and her parents, Brittany and A.J. Belling, make up one of many families that are fed up with the strict princess dresses for girls, action figures for boys stereotypi­ng that they say still pervades children’s toys, clothes, costumes and other merchandis­e.

Retailers and manufactur­ers in the $22 billion toy industry, along with media companies, are starting to heed these concerns. Not only are toymakers more wary of marketing some items only to boys or only to girls, they and major store chains are creating gender-neutral or androgynou­s labels and store aisles.

In August, Target announced that it would no longer use signs to label toys for girls and boys in their stores. For the first time this year, the Disney Store is banishing girl and boy designatio­ns from its children’s Halloween costumes, labeling all outfits “for kids.” It also has switched to generic tags on lunchboxes, backpacks and other accessorie­s.

Amazon no longer uses gender- based categories for children’s toys. Next spring, Mattel is introducin­g a line of action figures based on a

$95-$275

new franchise, DC Super Hero Girls. And on Monday, the TV series “Supergirl” debuted on CBS.

“The gender barriers are breaking down, and both manufactur­ers and retailers are not labeling toys like they used to,” said Jim Silver, the editor in chief of TTPM, a toy review website. “The industry’s learned that you shouldn’t be labeling for a specific gender. There are so many girls who want to be Iron Man and Captain America, and boys who want to play with Easy-Bake.”

The shift is part of a wider movement in retail to blur gender lines, as society moves beyond stereotype­s, and celebritie­s as varied as Caitlyn Jenner and Jaden Smith put a spotlight on an array of gender identities. In fashion, designers like Rad Hourani are creating androgynou­s labels, and top-tier designers, from Marc Jacobs to Hermès, are eroding the divide between feminine and masculine clothes.

The rise in popularity of athletic wear and relatively genderless offerings from companies like North Face and Patagonia have also helped spread unisex design. Footwear brands like Converse, Vans or Birkenstoc­k also now market the same styles for both men and women. Wearable technology, like smartwatch­es and activity monitors, has been relatively gender-neutral.

“If a guy wants to go out and buy a woman’s scarf and thinks that’s fashionabl­e, whatever his sexual preference, it’s going to happen,” said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at the New York-based research firm NPD. “This is something where the world jumped way ahead of retail, and now retail is trying to catch up.”

Still, the most significan­t shifts in gender categorizi­ng — and certainly the most debated — have been in children’s merchandis­e. The shifts stem from a growing recogni- tion, first among niche outlets and now among mainstream companies, of the role many traditiona­l toys, clothes and costumes have played in reinforcin­g gender stereotypi­ng. Experts have linked the items to all manner of gender disparitie­s, including gaps in boys’ and girls’ self-confidence levels and career choices.

Parents have taken to social media to protest retailers’ overly girly offerings, or to show off their children defying gender norms. Last year, Land’s End introduced a line of science-themed shirts for girls after a New Jersey mother, Lisa Ryder, posted an open letter on the brand’s Facebook page calling out its boy-only science collection. More recently, a Virginia father, Paul Henson, garnered widespread kudos online for his Facebook post about his 3-year-old son, who intends to dress as Elsa from Disney’s “Frozen” movie this Halloween.

Target’s move to remove gender labels from its toy section came after Abi Bechtel of Ohio took to Twitter to protest a sign on display at the retailer for “Girls’ Building Sets.” Target announced in August that it was removing gender-based signs from its children’s toys and bedding aisles.

The retailer’s online store still labels girls’ and boys’ toys, however, because its data suggests that many shoppers on the site still search for products by gender, according to a spokeswoma­n, Molly Snyder. (The site does allow shoppers to search for gender-neutral toys.)

Toys “R” Us has not categorize­d girls’ and boys’ toys in its stores for some time, said Richard Barry, the retailer’s global chief merchandis­ing officer. “What we’re seeing is that there are different play patterns that appeal to different kids, and gender lines are not necessaril­y what drives that,” Barry said.

The retailer’s role-play series — like its Pizza Chef or Cash Register play sets — are popular with girls and boys, he said. (The Toys “R” Us website continues to designate girls’ and boys’ toys; its Housekeepi­ng and Ironing Board play sets, both in pink, are considered girls’ toys.)

And despite the recent changes, a stroll through the toy section at a Target or a Toys “R” Us is still a gender- specific experience. At a Target store in Brooklyn, there were the “Frozen” princess dresses, My Little Pony figurines, and the convertibl­e- driving, glitter- haired Barbie dolls in one half of the children’s section. Then there were the separate aisles of Roboraptor robot dinosaurs, StarWars spaceships and Nerf guns.

Segregatio­n along gender lines in the toy category had worsened over the past decades before the recent pushback, said Elizabeth V. Sweet, a lecturer in sociology at the University of California, Davis who has written extensivel­y on gender stereotype­s in children’s toys. She puts much of the blame on the dismantlin­g, in 1984, of restrictio­ns on television programmin­g aimed at children.

Soon after, the top toys, like Transforme­rs, GoBots and My Little Pony, all had their own TV shows. This media franchisin­g, she said, with storybook themes for girls and battles and adventures for boys, still colors much merchandis­e along gender.

 ??  ?? Carole Radziwill
Carole Radziwill
 ?? DARREN HAUCK/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Aliceana Belling plays in a Captain America costume earlier this month at her home in Fond Du Lac, Wis.
DARREN HAUCK/THE NEW YORK TIMES Aliceana Belling plays in a Captain America costume earlier this month at her home in Fond Du Lac, Wis.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States