The Day

Pinto bean cakes with salsa make a hearty supper

- By JOE YONAN Adapted from “The Plant Love Kitchen” by Marisa Moore (National Geographic, 2023).

Some cooking mistakes can be hidden by a simple name change, the idea being that if you present something confidentl­y enough (and it doesn’t taste bad), your guests will be none the wiser. Did the toast get a bit darker than intended? Call it bruschetta! Did the custard not set? Call it crème anglaise!

This technique might also require a change in serving vessel or style, as in the classic example of a trifle. When your cake doesn’t rise enough, you cut it into cubes, and layer it with whipped cream and fruit in a glass bowl that shows off all its beauty.

Here’s one I’ve used more than once: If your veggie burgers turn out too soft, skip the buns, serve them on plates with a sauce and maybe a salad, and unapologet­ically call them bean cakes. That way, you avoid the dreaded smoosh effect that can come from compressin­g them between bread.

All this ran through my head when I tried a recipe from Marisa Moore’s new book, “The Plant Love Kitchen.” Her Pinto Bean Cakes are so simple to make. You just mash up the cooked or canned beans with onion, spices, and a good amount of cornmeal, which helps bind them and also adds a welcome crunch to the exterior when you pan-fry them. I used pinto beans as instructed,

but I’m confident that virtually any legume would work.

Now, these are no mistake. Far from it. I have no doubt they are exactly what Moore intended, because they’re delicious, especially when topped with her vibrant avocado salsa. But they also served to remind me that so much of cooking (and eating) is about expectatio­n

and its fulfillmen­t - or lack thereof. In other words, if these had been sandwiched between buns and called veggie burgers, I would’ve been disappoint­ed. Instead, I appreciate­d every tender bite. Pinto Bean Cakes With Avocado Salsa 4 servings (makes 8 cakes)

Total time: 35 minutes These simple, slightly smoky bean cakes are creamy inside, with a crispy crust (amplified by a little cornmeal). A quick avocado salsa on top provides a fresh counterpoi­nt. Serve with bread, rice or another grain if you’d like.

Storage: The bean cakes and salsa are best when eaten fresh, but you can refrigerat­e them separately for up to 2 days.

Substituti­ons: Don’t have pinto beans? >> Use black beans, kidney beans, or any other favorite legume.

Smoked paprika >> chili powder.

Cilantro >> parsley or mint.

Ingredient­s

For the bean cakes

Two (15-ounce) cans nosalt-added pinto beans (3-1/2 cups total), drained but not rinsed, with liquid reserved

1/2 cup fine or medium-grind cornmeal

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion (from 1/2 of a 12-ounce onion)

1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 tablespoon­s olive oil, divided

Cilantro leaves, for garnish Lime wedges, for garnish For the avocado salsa Flesh of 1 ripe medium avocado, diced

1 medium tomato, diced 1/2 cup diced red onion (from 1/2 of a 12-ounce onion) medium red onion, diced

1 garlic clove, finely grated or pressed

2 tablespoon­s fresh lime juice

1/4 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro, chopped

1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste

Directions

Step 1

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and set a large, rimmed baking sheet on it. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

Step 2

Make the bean cakes: In a large bowl, use a potato masher or fork to mash together the pinto beans, cornmeal, onion, smoked paprika, garlic powder, salt and pepper until well combined. Taste, and season with more salt as needed. If the mixture isn’t holding together well, add the bean liquid, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it holds together but isn’t wet. Step 3

Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions (about [1/3] cup each). Wet your hands and shape each portion into a patty about 3 to 4 inches in diameter and [1/2]-inch thick.

Step 4

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoon­s of the oil until it shimmers. Add 4 patties and cook until a crisp, dark golden brown crust forms, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to the baking sheet in the warm oven. Repeat with the remaining patties, using the remaining 2 tablespoon­s of oil and heating it before frying.

Step 5

Make the salsa: In a medium bowl, gently toss together the avocado, tomato, onion, garlic, lime, cilantro and salt. Taste, and season with more salt as needed.

Step 6

To serve, divide the patties among 4 plates and top each portion with about 1/3 cup salsa. Serve warm.

Nutritiona­l informatio­n per serving (2 cakes plus [1/3] cup salsa): Calories: 489, Carbohydra­tes: 65 g, Cholestero­l: 0 mg, Fat: 20 g, Fiber: 19 g, Protein 17 g, Saturated Fat: 3 g, Sodium: 458 mg, Sugar 5 g.

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredient­s and this preparatio­n. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritioni­st’s advice.

 ?? PHOTO FOR THE WASHINGTON POST BY TOM MCCORKLE ?? Pinto Bean Cakes With Avocado Salsa
PHOTO FOR THE WASHINGTON POST BY TOM MCCORKLE Pinto Bean Cakes With Avocado Salsa

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