Cantina Beach spices up the shoreline
If an eatery has the word “cantina” in the title, I’m there. When the title, specifically, is “Cantina Beach,” I’m there even faster, because: beach equals happiness. This new cantina is in Old Saybrook in a space occupied by a Japanese restaurant for many years and a pizza place for many years before that. The newest incarnation serves up Mexican fare with a gourmet flourish in an airy, club-lit dining room. After your eyes adjust, grab a window seat and take in the scene. Suggestion: Do that with a Skinny Margarita ($14), a less sugary version of the classic tequila-based cocktail, made with (actual) lime juice. Don Julio works its magic easily without the sticky sweetness of the typical marg embellishments, and we were transported to summertime within a few sips.
My longtime friend joined me for dinner on a recent visit, and we are such good pals, we ordered pretty much the same items. Skinny margs, fajitas (mine, steak; hers, chicken) and dessert. More on that in a minute. My one rogue move was to sample the Sopa de Frijoles Negros ($10), one of my favorite dishes of all time. I have given my Best Black Bean Soup Award to Atticus in New Haven, but be assured that Cantina Beach’s recipe is a very close second. It’s brothier than some black bean soups you’ll encounter, and that is a point in its favor. I’ll really dig in to ANY black bean soup, but the soupier, the better. At CB, the broth’s richness mixed with kicks of spice proved an excellent vehicle for the tender, inky beans. Even better, I requested my soup without the accompanying white onions on top, and that is what I received.
I later discovered that CB’s Yucca Fries ($8) are a fabulous accompaniment to the black bean soup, which was so good, I ordered it again during my second sampling. These thick, lightly fried, starchy planks will likely pick up the flavor of whatever you dip them in, and I can report that they take on black bean soup perfectly, with no resulting sogginess.
Back to the fajitas (both $23), which were appropriately hot and generously served. We both ran out of tortillas to fill with the tasty peppers and veggies, but it was substantial enough to enjoy by fork, and my husband appreciated the ample leftovers. We both enjoyed the bright peppery flavors of our fajita fixins and we thought our requisite meats could have been a little more tender. Luckily, they were tasty and nicely seasoned.
Our dinners out always include dessert, so we gladly took up our waitress on the Tres Leches Cake ($9) from the list of about a half-dozen options. We must note that it was beautifully presented and the cake-milk ratios were almost spot on, but we did find the cake a bit firm in spots and not as cool as we would have preferred.
Speaking of beautiful presentations, the Mexican Salad ($14) is a feast for the eyes and belly. A bed of perfectly crisp Romaine lettuce supported a colorful array of veggies and savories — queso fresco, corn, and avocado, oh my! — all tied together by a light, bright vinaigrette dressing. Ours came already dressed, and the application was perfect — the salad wasn’t drowned in it, and it added a great accent to the mix. Note: The salad typically comes with red onions, which I requested removed, and once again, CB’s staff proved their attention to detail.
Rounding out our tour de Cantina Beach menu was an order of the tamales ($14), one of our OTHER favorite things ever, and CB’s did not disappoint. I selected the carnitas filling (chicken available, too) and discovered a smokier rendition than other recipes I’ve sampled. It worked well, and even had a little kick that infused the surrounding masa. They look small, but they are quite hearty and big on flavor.
Ready to hit the beach? You’ll find plenty to explore at this new and promising cantina on the shoreline.