Good Bird Kitchen chicken is worth crowing about
When the Post Brewing Co. opened in Lafayette in 2014, area diners soon were crowing about the restaurant’s fried chicken, a moist bird whose crackling skin made patrons— especially those of the Southern persuasion— almost dewy- eyed with its taste of home.
Soon enough, the expanding Big Red F Restaurant Group ( Jax Fish House, Zolo Grill and Lola, among others) spun that expertise with all things yardbird into a casual, chicken centric room.
Which brings us to Good-Bird Kitchen, which opened in Longmont in early January. The offshoot didn’t just carry over Post’s chicken but some of its popular sides, too. Yes, you can order those mustardy deviled eggs with crispy, dime- sized pork cheek slivers.
The big twist: Good Bird chef Brett Smith, assisted by his compatriots, did extensive research to hone Big Red F’s own recipe of “Nashville hot chicken.” That fiery Tennessee bird is enjoying something of a moment in the nation’s restaurants, much as pork belly and short ribs had star turns in years past.
Smith takes a page from the traditional Southern playbook to make his chicken. The birds
are brined for several hours, dunked in buttermilk, then dredged in a seasoned flour. ( Given the times, he uses a gluten- free flour.) The chicken is prepared in a pressure cooker, accounting for the juicy meat and robust crust.
Three styles are available for the birds, whether fried or roasted. There’s the original, with its familiar crispy exterior. There’s a mustardy barbecue sauce, a hat tip to the South Carolina ’ cue style.
Then there is the “Nashville Hot.” The story is that a few years back, a resident of Music City U. S. A. angered his girlfriend. As revenge, she doctored a batch of chicken so he would feel like he was giving mouth- to- mouth resuscitation to a blowtorch. He loved the stuff. So here we are. GoodBird’s version had a fine zap to it, although I wasn’t shedding the tears my waitress vowed I would. While the chicken skin remained crisp, I thought the orange chile oil puddling inmy basket was a bit much. It did explain the hand wipes and extra napkins that arrived.
A fried chicken sandwich was first- rate; the boneless breast had proper crunch.
GoodBird caters to fans of white and dark meat. The two- piece white platter delivers breast and a wing; the dark platter a thigh and drumstick. Combos are available, too. Folks who want to channel their inner 4- year- old— you knowwho you are— can order a three- piece platter of all- white meat tenders.
Two other sandwiches pleased. One was the chicken salad. Then there was the egg salad BLT. One guest at the table, just on the other side of 80, had a “Why have I never seen this before?” moment. I was with him all the way on that sentiment.
Sides were tasty. Rosemary cheddar biscuit were tender. Beets and sweets, a bowlful of chopped root veggies, was topped with a whipped herbed goat cheese. The green chile mac- and- cheese, crusted with bread crumbs, delivered a creamy punch to the mouth. Tawny butter beans were done in a sweet Boston style.
Less satisfying was the house slaw. Shredded cabbage was tossed with a vinaigrette then topped with a dollop each of pickle relish and mayo. I’m not much for deconstructed anything. I’m paying, please mix it. You’re a pro, I trust you to deliver what any competent home picnic maven can.
GoodBird opens daily at 11 a. m.; blue plate specials start at 4 p. m. The poultry theme runs through the week: crunchy chicken tacos on Tuesday, pot pie onWednesday and chickenfried steak on Thursday ( with gravy, natch). Atlanta ex- pats can indulge in chicken and waffles on any day that ends in Y.
The bulk of the restaurant’s beer selection is made at Post Brewing Co., including theMeathooks Mile Ale, at 4.1 percent a lower- alcohol brew. Two wines are available, a red and a white, plus cocktails. There are plenty of non- alcohol options.
This a fun, lively room. And it’s hard not to enjoy a place that gives primacy of place over the bar to large photographs of Barney Fife, JohnWayne and a sweater- clad Jeff Bridges in full “Big Lebowski” slouch.
It really ties the room together.