Slow- cooked stewthat’s hearty and filling

When I moved to the Bay Area more than 25 years ago, one of the first things I did was to visit the restaurants of my cookbook heroes ( there was no Food Network back then and almost no food TV). Although I had little money, I treated myself to lunch at the Cafe at Chez Panisse and, sure enough, as I was walking upstairs to the cafe, I saw AliceWaters herself, shucking peas at the downstairs restaurant with a phone wedged between her shoulder and her ear.

I went to Stars, then the top restaurant in San Francisco, and the chef/ owner Jeremiah Tower fixed me with a Don’t- youknowwho- I- am stare. A few weeks later, I saw Paul Bertolli, the legendary chef of Chez Panisse and the author of what is still one of the best restaurant cookbooks, leaning against a pillar at the restaurant where I worked, enjoying amartini by himself.

When I got my first sous chef job in the city, I was excited to learn that we ordered from the same meat supplier who sold to Chez Panisse, and whose name was all over their cookbooks and synonymous with compassionate and enlightened ranching. I was excited, and to show my sophistication, I ordered some oxtail from him. I thought he would appreciate my sophistication in ordering this rustic cut of meat. When it arrived, to my horror, I saw a huge, knobby, bloody tail in a plastic bag, looking like something from one of the “Alien” movies. I had not thought to specify that I wanted it cut into small pieces, which is the way I’d always seen it. I picked up the phone, called the famous meat purveyor, and asked him to please take it back. After letting loose a torrent of obscenities, he grudgingly agreed to take it back and cut it up.

I learned several things from that experience: Your heroes aren’t always the way you imagined they should be, and it pays to be specific in your directions.

One of the reasons oxtail is almost always sold cut up into small pieces is that its bones are rich and gelatinous and cutting up the oxtail releases that gelatinousness and also allows you to brown the oxtail better and give your stewa deeper flavor.

This recipe is garnished with pickles, which cut through the richness of the stew.

Oxtail and Barley Stew

Serves 4- 6. Ingredients 2 tablespoons coarsely ground fennel seed 2 tablespoons coarsely ground coriander seed 1 tablespoon paprika 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 2 tablespoons coarse sea salt 5 pounds oxtail, cut into 2- inch pieces 2 tablespoons neutral oil 2 yellow onions, cut into medium dice 1 large carrot, peeled, cut into medium dice 1 medium celery root, rinsed, peeled and cut

into medium dice 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cup white wine 6 cups chicken broth 1 sprig rosemary 1 bay leaf 1 cup cooked barley ¼ cup thinly sliced pickles Directions Preheat oven to 350. Mix the fennel, coriander, paprika, black pepper and sea salt. Season the oxtail all over with M of the seasoning mix.

In a Dutch oven set over low- medium, heat the oil, brown the oxtail pieces and set them to the side. This will have to be done in batches.

Pour off most of the fat and slowly caramelize the onion, carrot and celery root. Add the tomato paste and fry 1 minute. Add the white wine and reduce by half.

Add the chicken stock, rosemary and bay leaf and return the oxtail to the pot.

The liquid should cover the oxtail. If not, add a little water. Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover the pot and place in the oven for about 3- 4 hours, or until the meat comes off the bone.

Using a slotted spoon, remove the oxtail pieces from the pot. When the oxtail is cool enough to handle, pick the meat off the bones and season it with the remaining spice mixture.

Thoroughly degrease the oxtail broth and reduce until slightly thickened. Add the oxtail and barley to the liquid and simmer 10 minutes. Divide the stew among 4- 6 bowls and garnish with some of the sliced pickles.

Serve immediately.