The Denver Post

A place in Paris for every traveler

- By Mary Winston Nicklin

You’re finally taking that dream trip to the City of Light. Or maybe you’re a Paris-obsessed francophil­e who visits every year, and the enticement of a youthful new president (Emmanuel Macron is the youngest in French history) has ensnared you.

After a difficult year for tourism following another high-profile terrorist attack, Paris has reclaimed its spot as one of the most popular cities in the world. In fact, the number of hotel overnights in January reached a 10-year high for the month.

Paris is a laboratory for experiment­al hotel concepts and creative design, and the world’s largest market for Airbnb.

No matter your personalit­y type, you’ll find lodgings that are pinch-yourself perfect. Here’s our guide:

BACKPACKER­S

Did you know you can camp in the heart of Paris? Not far from Montparnas­se, the

former Saint-Vincent-de-Paul hospital is being repurposed into an “eco-neighborho­od” in the 14th arrondisse­ment. In the meantime, the vast verdant site is home to Les Grands Voisins, a community-centric project with cafes, nonprofit organizati­ons, artists’ studios, organic gardens and even its own campground, with tents and cute cabins such as the popular La Cahute, a mobile miniature maison crafted in Brittany.

Two-person tents cost 22 euros a night (about $25) and are available until Oct. 1, but take note that this is the final season.

Hostels aren’t just for backpackin­g 20-somethings. FIAP hostels welcome both groups and individual­s, young and old alike, and offers community-center ambiance with a cafe and rotating exhibition­s. Generator Hostel made a splash when it debuted as a “poshtel” in 2015, with the idea that affordable rooms don’t have to compromise on style or comfort. Between Belleville and Menilmonta­nt, the beautifull­y designed Les Piaules hostel offers a panoramic rooftop terrace and free WiFi.

PENNY-PINCHERS

Can you find a Paris bolthole for less than 150 euros a night? Oui, and they’re not fleabags, though keep in mind that Paris hotel rooms can be quite small. In addition to the aforementi­oned hostels, you’ll find affordable rates and friendly service at the Hotel Mayet, which is within walking distance — along the lovely rue du Cherche-Midi — of the bustling heart of Saint Germain. The Grand Hotel Leveque has developed a word-of-mouth reputation as a great budget option in the Eiffel Tower area; an added bonus is its location on the rue Cler, a wonderful market street in the shadow of La Dame de Fer.

Across the river, in a nontourist­y area of the ninth arrondisse­ment, the Hotel du Temps is a small neighborho­od hotel with soul; the rooms are stylishly decorated with a vintage, 1950s look.

Not far from the Jardin des Plantes, the Hotel La Demeure has a welcoming, friendly vibe. Flavie+Paul, a young Parisian design duo, created a colorful, playful ambiance with the modern decoration and space-saving elements in the guest rooms. Note that this family-owned hotel plans to upgrade from a three-star to a four-star establishm­ent, so room rates are likely to change.

HISTORY BUFFS

There’s no shortage of historyste­eped hotels in Paris: Le Meurice, where Salvador Dalí walked his pet ocelots; L’Hotel, where a dying Oscar Wilde said “either the wallpaper goes or I do.”

Some of the most interestin­g of them are newly reconverte­d buildings with legendary past lives. Say the word “Molitor” and Parisians will spin tales of bronzed bodies frolicking in the summer sun. Dedicated in 1929, the famous Art Deco pool complex was where the first bikini had its debut. Today, it’s a hotel with a Clarins spa and rooftop garden terrace as well.

In the hip third arrondisse­ment, Les Bains is the cool kid on the block. It was city’s first spa (Proust took to the waters), then in the 1970s became a Philippe Starck-designed nightclub where Andy Warhol, David Bowie and Jean-Michel Basquiat danced on the famous checkerboa­rd dance floor. Today, it’s a five-star hotel tucked behind a Haussmanni­an facade with a Bacchus bust, a nod to its hedonistic history.

HOMEBODIES

In Paris, you can choose to bed down in a vacation-rental apartment or perhaps play house in a pied-à-terre overlookin­g the Eiffel Tower. Companies such as Paris Perfect offer more than 100 apartments in various neighborho­ods, complete with hotel-style services. Request a fully stocked refrigerat­or, breakfast delivery or soufflecoo­king classes with chef Philippe Excoffier, who used to work as the head chef at the American Embassy. Founder Madelyn Willems stresses the importance of having round-the-clock Paris staff available to help guests.

The jewel in the crown is 25 Place Dauphine, tucked away on a picturesqu­e square on the Ile de la Cite, the island that is home to Notre-Dame Cathedral. For years, backpacker­s flocked to a squalid little hotel — a total dive with communal bathrooms — called the Hotel Henri IV. This prized property fell on hard times, its beams rotting, desperate for some TLC, until Paris Perfect saved it with a restoratio­n overseen by Gabor Mester De Parajd, France’s chief architect of historic monuments. Now, it’s home to six apartments with state-of-the-art kitchens.

Airbnb users are spoiled for choice in Paris, where the offerings run the gamut from shared rooms to sprawling luxury apartments. The world’s largest community-driven hospitalit­y company has also rolled out a portfolio of bookable local experience­s: think bike tours, wine tastings and private guitar concerts.

HIGH-ROLLERS

Paris is home to some of the most luxurious hotels in the world — so posh, in fact, that they merit their own “palace hotel” classifica­tion. These 10 landmarks are destinatio­ns in themselves, and promise a check-allthe-boxes guest experience. Think dreamy spas, Michelinst­arred restaurant­s and art-filled rooms so gorgeous that you might never want to leave. Bien sûr, they’ve got a price tag to match. The newest of this elite bunch is La Reserve Paris, a sumptuous Jacques Garcia-designed hotel not far from the Elysee Presidenti­al Palace. Here, the Parisian beaux mondes rub shoulders with out-of-town visitors in the buzzy restaurant­s and the Duc de Morny library, which morphs into a jazz lounge in the evening. On the fashionabl­e avenue Montaigne, Hotel Plaza Athenee has a Dior spa and a Michelin threestarr­ed restaurant by Alain Ducasse, who champions a sustainabl­e “Naturality” menu starring fish, veggies and grains.

Occupying the former mansion of Prince Roland Bonaparte, Napoleon Bonaparte’s grandnephe­w, the Shangri-La Hotel Paris has the only luxury accommodat­ions facing the Eiffel Tower, and a quarter of the rooms have a balcony or terrace with eat-your-heart-out views.

Fans of Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris” will recognize Le Bristol, which served as one of its sets.

ROMANTICS

Arguably, any place in Paris is saturated in romance, but in addition to the palace hotels, there are a few standouts. The Pavillon de la Reine is housed inside a 17th-century hotel particulie­r (nobleman’s mansion) on the prettiest square in Paris: the Place des Vosges in the Marais. From under the arcades, duck inside the leafy courtyard to find this discreet four-star address.

Dressed to the nines in Carrara marble and hand-painted walls, the Nolinski Paris opened in July 2016 on the Avenue de l’Opera. The rooms are so stunning — is that an armoire imagined as a travel trunk in lacquered wood? — that you’ll pine to take a piece home with you. Luckily, you soon can; a catalogue will highlight custom decor — such as cubist-style mirrors by Cassimidy — available to order. Great food can be found at the hotel’s Brasserie Rejane, and the subterrane­an spa features treatments by La Colline skin care.

TRENDSETTE­RS

In Paris, you’ll find thrilling new hospitalit­y concepts. Case in point: MOB Hotel, Of the People, founded by philosophe­r-entreprene­ur Cyril Aouizerate. He has teamed up with Steve Case, longtime friend Starck and business magnate Michel Reybier on what he calls a new “movement” — “not a hotel chain.”

Leave it to Aouizerate to pinpoint the cool, emerging neighborho­ods, and Saint-Ouen, a northern suburb which is home to the famous Marche aux Puces antiques market, is seeing a renaissanc­e. Here, inside a red brick building that was former a telecom facility, MOB opened in March. Film screenings and cultural events are hosted, neighbors cultivate the vegetable garden, and a rotating roster of start-ups are allowed to use workspace free. There’s an organic restaurant, an expansive outdoor terrace and pop-up shops to showcase the work of young creatives. A true innovation is the Air Mob Lounge where guests can nap, shower or make internatio­nal calls in the Skype phone booth, all before check-in.

FRINGERS

For a nautical experience, check into Off Paris Seine, the city’s first floating hotel. This custom-built barge — complete with a trendy lounge and a little pool — is docked near the Gare de l’Austerlitz.

Love art? In the heart of the city, the new Drawing Hotel was founded by Carine Tissot, who heads the contempora­ry art fair DRAWING NOW PARIS. Six artists were commission­ed to decorate the corridors on the hotel’s five floors. Hotel perks include an art concierge and a private art center called the Drawing Lab.

Calling all foodies. Fauchon, the famous gourmet food emporium on the Place de la Madeleine, will be opening an eponymous hotel in 2018. Let’s hope their pretty éclairs are part of the turndown service.

Bon séjour!

 ??  ?? On the prestigiou­s avenue Montaigne, the Hotel Plaza Athenee is a palace hotel featuring a Dior spa and a Michelin three-starred restaurant by Alain Ducasse. Mary Winston Nicklin for The Washington Post
On the prestigiou­s avenue Montaigne, the Hotel Plaza Athenee is a palace hotel featuring a Dior spa and a Michelin three-starred restaurant by Alain Ducasse. Mary Winston Nicklin for The Washington Post
 ??  ??
 ?? Photos by Mary Winston Nicklin for The Washington Post ?? Docked near the Gare de l’Austerlitz, Off Paris Seine is the city’s first floating hotel.
Photos by Mary Winston Nicklin for The Washington Post Docked near the Gare de l’Austerlitz, Off Paris Seine is the city’s first floating hotel.
 ??  ?? Les Grands Voisins is home to a campground complete with mini cabins and tents.
Les Grands Voisins is home to a campground complete with mini cabins and tents.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States