5 HIKES WITH WATERFALLS TO DO NEAR DENVER
5 hikes with waterfalls near Denver to re-energize yourself in the heat
I recently found some old guidebooks in a pile of hiking equipment in my closet.
One jumped out at me: “Waterfalls in Colorado: A Guide to the State’s Best Waterfall Hikes.” The book was published in July 2013, a few short months before devastating floods ravaged Boulder, damaging communities and the backcountry. It seemed fitting to be revisiting it in the midst of another disaster.
“It’s hard to be sullen or sad when you’re surrounded by the beauty of Colorado’s backcountry,” author Susan Joy Paul writes. “The sights, sounds and smells of the wilderness conspire to lift your spirits and melt your worries, leaving you with an overall feeling of peace, happiness and well-being.”
I’ve been bogged down by the neverending badnews headlines, from the global pandemic to police brutality against black people, and grappling with my role in all this. A few moments of peaceful reflection were just what I needed.
I already had a reservation for Rocky Mountain National Park on the books. I had snatched it when the park first opened its timed entry system, at the time thinking a Wednesday morning hike in the middle of a furlough from The Denver Post would be nice. I still hadn’t decided what hike to do, so I flipped to the RMNP section of the guidebook and thumbed through my options. I was looking for a strenuous hike that wouldn’t be too crowded. I landed on Ypsilon Falls.
When I got to the park, it was practically empty. I set out on the trail a little after 8 a.m. and didn’t see anyone for at least 2 miles. It was steep on the way up and long — my phone showed 9.75 miles out-and-back, although that included some backtracking after I distractedly missed a turn. The trail offered beautiful views but, to be honest, I missed a lot of them. I was too focused on reaching the waterfall where my peaceful moment was waiting.
But it had snowed the day before, covering more and more of the trail on the way up until the path was eventually lost completely. I had to give up around Chipmunk Lake after spending far too long walking in circles and getting far too much snow in my boots.
So much for a peaceful waterfall moment.
I ate lunch on a rock by the small lake. When I finished, I leaned back and closed my eyes. All I could hear was the wind howling through the trees. I hadn’t realized how loud it was before. At times it felt like it was yelling in my ears. The wind pushed through the surrounding evergreens with a purpose. It would take a second to catch its breath before howling more. No, it wasn’t peace
ful. It didn’t have that luxury. It was … powerful.
And it felt energizing. Some hikers passed by, forcing me to open my eyes again. There weren’t many people on the trail but it was hard not to be wary whenever someone came near. I kept an eye out to make sure they stayed the requisite 6 feet away.
I soon packed up and returned to the trail, heading back the way I came. But this time I felt different. I felt motivated, invigorated, determined.
I felt a bit like the wind. Paul might be right when she wrote that wilderness can bring you peace, but it can also bring you stamina. It’s the inhale and exhale you take before bounding down the path again. And, yes, it would’ve been nice to listen to both the wind and a beautiful waterfall. But it didn’t work out that way for me. I’m just glad I went searching for the waterfall in the first place.
“Waterfalls in Colorado” (Falcon Guides) offers hikes to 150 Colorado waterfalls, ranging from easy walks to strenuous treks. Here are five near Denver selected from the book. (And if you don’t make it all the way to the waterfall, just embrace how far you do get.)
Note: Make sure to check the website of a hike’s public land manager before heading out to make sure there aren’t any unexpected coronavirus closures.
St. Mary’s Falls
Colorado Springs
Mountain springs from the eastern slopes of 11,499-foot Mount Rosa feed Buffalo Creek, flowing northeast and cutting deep into Buffalo Canyon. The creek sidles up along 9,782-foot Stove Mountain and washes over granite slabs in a gleaming slide at St. Mary’s Falls.
Start: Gold Camp Road Trailhead
Difficulty: Moderate Approximate hiking time: 4 hours Distance: 6 miles out and back Elevation trailhead to falls viewpoint: 7,520 feet to 8,870 feet (+1,350 feet) Trail surface: Gravel and hard-packed dirt, rock, and timber steps Land status: North Cheyenne Cañon Park; Pike National Forest; Pikes Peak Ranger District Finding the trailhead:
From I-25 in Colorado Springs, take Cimarron Street exit 141 and go west on US 24. Drive 1.5 miles and turn left onto South 21st Street, which becomes Cresta Road. Drive 3 miles and turn right onto Cheyenne Boulevard, then go 1 mile and bear right onto North Cheyenne Canyon Road. Drive 3.2 miles and park in the large lot where the paved road ends. The hike starts at a closed gate on the northwest end of the parking lot (GPS: N38 47.449’/W104 54.253).
The hike: Follow Gold Camp Road as it crosses North Cheyenne Creek and passes by a collapsed tunnel. Here, the road ends and you’ll ascend a narrow trail that rises to a supreme lookout toward 8,020-foot Mount Muscoco and the city beyond. As the trail descends, look for the cutoff to St. Mary’s Falls on your right. It’s easy to miss, and if you reach a creek crossing and Gold Camp Road again, you’ve gone too far.
At this point, you are above Helen Hunt Falls and Silver Cascade, so you may hear voices below. There are many social trails leading down to the creek on the way to St. Mary’s Falls, but stick to the main trail as it rises to the southwest, toward Mount Rosa. You’ll reach the falls from the right side, and there are rocks and timbers laid out that criss-cross the base. Enjoy views from the bottom or follow the logs to a higher viewpoint and a memorial to local hiker and climber Eamon Murphy, who spent many days on the trails and the peaks of North Cheyenne Cañon.
Eldorado Falls
Boulder
West of Eldorado Springs, South Boulder Creek flows from Gross Reservoir, through historic Walker Ranch Park and into Eldorado Canyon.
The reservoir’s steady outflux provides a yearround cascade that slips through the canyon, over, under, and between boulders in a tumultuous flourish at Eldorado Falls. Start: Eldorado Canyon Trailhead Difficulty: Moderate Approximate hiking time: 4 hours Distance: 6.6 miles out and back Elevation trailhead to falls viewpoint: 6,100 feet to 6,460 feet (+360 feet) Trail surface: Gravel road, dirt, and rocks Land status: Eldorado Canyon State Park; City of Boulder Open Space & Mountain Parks Finding the trailhead:
From Boulder, take CO 93 south and go right (west) onto CO 170 to Eldorado Springs Drive. This enters the town of Eldorado Springs and turns into dirt road Artesian Drive at 2.7 miles. Drive another 0.4 mile and bear left onto Kneale Road. Stop at the pay gate to enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, then continue through the canyon 0.7 mile to the end of the road and park at the pullout on the right. There is a visitor center and picnic area on the left side of the road, but you will hike up the (closed to traffic) main road 0.1 mile to Eldorado Canyon Trailhead (GPS: N39 55.859’/W105 17.641 ). Note: The park says it’s been reaching capacity on weekends between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. so plan to get there early.
The hike: From the Eldorado Canyon Trailhead, ascend switchbacks along the western flanks of 7,340-foot Shirttail Peak, rising high above North Draw. Eldorado Canyon has hundreds of rock climbing routes, and the trail will take you past cutoffs to a bouldering area at 0.2 mile and RinconWall at 0.6 mile. There are wooden and rock steps on the steeper sections, as the trail winds into the forest and through a habitat conservation area, topping out at 2.5 miles with mountaintop views of Indian Peaks Wilderness to the west. Here, the trail drops off to the right (west) and descends quickly to the creek bed. Meet the Walker Ranch Loop at the bottom, go left to the creek, cross the bridge, and go up and over a short rise. Choose a flat stone to sit on and rest for a bit while you enjoy the falls.
Maxwell Falls
Between Evergreen and Conifer
Maxwell Creek slides
north through a trailside defile, trembles through boulders in watery segments, and slips over black granite blocks in shimmery sheets at Maxwell Falls. This up-and-down hike between Evergreen and Conifer is a family favorite, and popular with dogs, too. NOTE: Recent trail reports suggest the waterfall is more of a trickle this time of year, but the hike is still a beautiful one.
Start: Upper Maxwell Falls Trailhead, Lower Maxwell Falls Trailhead
Difficulty: Easy from Upper Maxwell Falls Trailhead; easy/moderate from Lower Maxwell Falls Trailhead Approximate hiking
time: Less than 1 hour from upper trailhead; 3 hours from lower trailhead
Distance: 1 mile out and back from upper trailhead to overlook, 1.2 miles out and back from upper trailhead to overlook and base of falls; 3.6 miles out and back from lower trail-head to overlook, 3.8 miles out and back from lower trailhead to base of falls and overlook Elevation trailheads to falls viewpoints: 8,410 feet to 8,260 feet
(-150 feet) from upper trailhead to overlook; from 7,780 feet to 8,260 feet (+480 feet) from lower trailhead to overlook
Trail surface: Dirt, rocks, pine needles, and duff
Land status: Arapaho National Forest; Clear Creek Ranger District Finding the trailhead:
Upper Trailhead: From US 285 North in Conifer, go right toward CR 73, then left onto Pleasant Park Road. Drive 0.2 mile and turn right onto CR 73. Drive 2.9 miles and turn left onto Shadow Mountain Drive / CR 78, then drive 3 miles and turn left onto Black Mountain Drive / CR 78. Go 1 mile to the trailhead and parking on the left (GPS: N39 33.751’/ W105 22.607 ).
Lower Trailhead: From CO 74 in Evergreen, take CR 73 south for 1 mile and turn right onto South Brook Forest Road. Go 3.6 miles to the parking area on the left side of the road. It’s hidden at a bend and very easy to miss (GPS: N39 34.942’/W105 21.651).
The hike: From the upper trailhead, it’s a short descent to the falls, with most of the elevation gain on your hike back to the trailhead. You can view the falls creekside, or continue as the trail ascends to a signed overlook, or continue on and descend to the creek for a closer look at the lower leaps of the falls. Do not be tempted to descend directly from the overlook to the lowest leaps or vice-versa, but rather use the trails that are in place.
From the lower trailhead, it’s a more serious hike with a lot more elevation gain. Although the net gain from trailhead to falls is just 480 feet, Maxwell Falls Trail rises and falls twice — a couple of hundred feet each time — and you will have to regain the loss on the way out for a total gain of more than 1,000 feet out and back. Plan for a longer hike than you might expect, over such a short distance. Your hike begins in the shade with Maxwell Creek to your right, crosses the creek at 0.75 mile, switches back, and climbs the hillside.
You’ll come out of the forest to a flat area with a lot of new pine, and reach a trail junction where you should continue straight and descend the trail. Cross a footbridge and take the left fork alongside the creek, and stay left again at the junction with the Cliff Loop. The trail rises high above the creek, then drops again, and there’s a social trail leading down to the base of the falls. You may have to hike upstream a bit, but there’s a nice flat rock waiting for you and great views of the prettiest leaps. Return to the main trail and hike a bit farther to the signed overlook and a slippery scree trail leading down to the upper leaps. Do not attempt to reach the lower leaps directly from this spot, as the rock slabs are steep and dangerous.
Ypsilon Falls
Rocky Mountain National Park Spectacle Lakes lie at the edge of the Mummy Range in Rocky Mountain National Park. Their mountain waters flow south through a narrow ravine, in multitiered horsetails amid mossy rocks and greenery, and spill into a shimmering, brown pool at Ypsilon Falls.
Start: Lawn Lake Trailhead Difficulty: Strenuous Approximate hiking time: 6 hours Distance: 9 miles out and back Elevation trailhead to falls viewing area: 8,540 feet to 10,590 feet (+2,050 feet) Trail surface: Dirt and rocks Land status: Rocky Mountain National Park Finding the trailhead:
From Estes Park, take US 34 West/Fall River Road for 4.7 miles to the Fall River Entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. Continue 2.1 miles on US 34 and turn right onto Old
Fall River Road. Drive 0.1 mile to the Lawn Lake Trailhead parking area on the right (GPS: N40 24.441’/W105 37.566).
The hike: The hike to Ypsilon Falls begins on Lawn Lake Trail, and follows the ridge above Horseshoe Park and Horseshoe Falls. At about a mile the trail meets up with Roaring River, and follows it for about half a mile before reaching the junction with Ypsilon Lake Trail. There you’ll bear left, cross a footbridge over the river, and head south — then, north — toward Ypsilon Lake. The trail continues to climb easily but steadily, through a lodgepole pine forest, with limited views. At about 9,945 feet you’ll reach a flat area, then traverse the hillside and drop down to Chipmunk Lake. There, you’ll have views of 13,502-foot Fairchild Mountain, to the north. Continue on the trail to Ypsilon Lake, cross a footbridge, and view the flowing tiers of Ypsilon Falls, to the left. From a trail along the left side of the waterfall, view the thinner upper leaps, tucked in boulders and fern.
Timberline Falls (at Camp Dick)
Boulder
At the eastern end of the Buchanan PassTrail, Middle St. Vrain Creek gushes through a deep gorge and drops its waters in stepped sheets and cascades over boulders at Timberline Falls.
Start: Middle Saint
Vrain Trailhead
Difficulty: Easy/moderate
Approximate hiking time: 3 hours
Distance: 4.4 miles out and back
Elevation trailhead to falls viewpoint: 8,700 feet to 9,200 feet (+500 feet)
Trail surface: Dirt and rocks
Land status: Roosevelt National Forest, Boulder Ranger District
Finding the trailhead: From Boulder, take CO 93 North and turn left onto Lee Hill Drive, which turns into Olde Stage Road. At 4.7 miles turn left onto Lefthand Canyon Drive (which turns into James Canyon Drive, Main Street, and unpaved Overland Road) and drive 12.3 miles, then turn right onto paved CO 72 West/Peak to Peak Highway. Drive 1.5 miles, turn left onto CR 92, and go 0.1 mile to Middle St. Vrain Road. Continue for another 1.2 miles through Peaceful Valley Campground and Camp Dick Campground, to the far west end of the road and parking at the trailhead. If you are traveling from Lyons, take CO 7 West for about 7 miles to CO 72; from Estes Park, take CO 7 South for about 18 miles to CO 72 (GPS: N40 7.793’/W105 31.447 ). NOTE: AllTrails says the road into Camp Dick is currently closed so expect to walk along pavement to reach the trail, adding 1.5 to 2 miles roundtrip.
The hike: The hike starts off on a 4WD road left of Middle St. Vrain Creek, and follows the creek for the entire distance on Buchanan Pass Trail 910. You’ll pass a junction with the Sourdough Trail on your left, then bear right toward Buchanan Pass, which — if you care to extend your trip — is about 10 miles from the trailhead. Cross a footbridge over the creek and continue west on a narrow, rocky trail. Pass through an open area with a high ridge to your right, then go back into the forest on a nicer trail. Cross an unnamed tributary on rocks and logs, and you will soon hear the falls. Look for a narrow trail to the left, leading down to the creek bed, and proceed with care to the base of the falls. Return to the main trail and continue to a higher perch at rock outcrops above the falls, and more descending trails above the falls. Take care on the rocks, above the falls, and when hiking the steep trails down to the creek; the waters run fast and a fall would likely be fatal.