The Queen of the Coop talks eggs
Plus, 5 common egg cooking mistakes
She may not be able to tell you which came first, the chicken or the egg, but food writer Lisa Steele is an expert on everything else poultry related. Her new “Fresh Eggs Daily Cookbook” (Harper Horizon) dishes on not just recipes — more than 100 of them — but common mistakes you may be making in the kitchen.
Here are five to avoid, followed by a few recipes.
Using old eggs. Fresh eggs — no more than two to three weeks old — not only taste better, they’re easier to handle. That’s because both the egg white and the thin membrane holding the yolk together thin out as an egg ages. Old eggs result in wispy poached eggs or fried eggs whose yolks break in the pan. And because old eggs have more time for air to seep through the shell, your hard-boiled eggs may be easier to peel, but they’re likelier to have big dimples at one end, which makes for lopsided deviled eggs.
“Fresh eggs will peel perfectly,” Steele says, “if you steam them in a double boiler for 12 minutes, then put them into a bowl of ice water until they’re cool enough to handle.”
Using high heat. Eggs cook swiftly, so if you’re using high heat, your eggs will be dry and overcooked. Instead, cook them slowly over low heat and take the pan off the stove before they’re quite done. They should be barely set and still moist when they hit the plate, where they will continue to set.
Cracking eggs on a sharp edge. It may be tempting to crack your egg on the edge of a bowl or countertop, but you risk pushing eggshell shards into the egg. Instead, use a flat surface — like a cutting board.
Baking with cold eggs. Yes, cold eggs are much easier to separate, but then let the yolks and whites come to room temperature — 30 minutes should do it — before adding them to batter. Adding chilled eggs to cake or cookie batter will make the butter or other fats seize up or curdle. And cold egg whites, in particular, won’t whip or incorporate properly.
Angel food cake may strand you with unused yolks, while lemon curd leaves the whites behind. But don’t throw away those extras. Both egg whites and yolks freeze really well. (Freeze the whites as is; lightly whisk the yolks and add a pinch of salt so the texture doesn’t get weird.) Then use those leftovers later when you’re making meringue — 2 tablespoons equal 1 egg white — or Hollandaise (1 tablespoon equals a yolk).
Here are a few recipes:
Baked Eggs in Butternut Squash Rings
These beautiful baked eggs make a sunny addition to any brunch spread, and add a bit of produce deliciousness at the same time. They’re baked in rings of roasted butternut squash. You can use acorn or spaghetti squash instead, but butternut lends itself particularly well to this treatment.
“Roasting the squash before adding the egg ensures that the squash will be tender and slightly caramelized,” cookbook author Lisa Steele says, “while the eggs will be cooked to perfection in the center.”
From “Fresh Eggs Daily Cookbook” (Harper Horizon) by Lisa Steele. Serves 6.
Ingredients
1 large butternut squash Extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper 6 eggs
K cup freshly grated Parmesan
cheese
Fresh sage for garnish
Directions
Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Wash the squash and cut crosswise into six ¾- to 1- inch slices. Scoop out the seeds and hollow out the middle of each slice to allow room for an egg.
Arrange the squash on the baking sheet and brush each ring with olive oil inside and out, then season with salt and pepper. Bake on the center rack of the oven for 20 minutes, until the squash has softened.
Remove the baking sheet from the oven and gently crack and slide 1 egg into the center of each squash ring. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil, and return to the oven. Bake about 8 minutes, until the egg whites are set and the yolks are firm but not fully set.
Use a spatula to slide the squash rings onto plates. Top with Parmesan, garnish with fresh sage and drizzle with olive oil.
Toasty Baked Egg Cups
This particular entry, a crunchy toast, eggs and Gouda cheese number you bake in a muffin pan, is a one- hand wonder, she says, leaving “the other hand to type or scroll through your social media feed.”
Feel free to play with the ingredients. Steele likes Gouda or cheddar, but nearly any cheese will work. And if you’re craving a dash of porky flavor, add crumbled cooked sausage or bacon to the cups before sprinkling in the cheese.
From “Fresh Eggs Daily Cookbook” by Lisa Steele. (Harper Horizon). Makes 12
Ingredients
12 slices sandwich bread 6 tablespoons butter, melted O cup shredded Gouda cheese 12 eggs
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper Chopped chives for garnish
Directions
Heat the oven to 375 degrees.
Trim the crusts off the bread slices and use a rolling pin to flatten each slice into a square. Generously brush both sides of each slice with the melted butter, then press 1 slice into each cup of a standard muffin tin, forming bread “bowls.”
Divide the cheese among the cups, then carefully break and slide 1 egg into each cup. Season with salt and pepper.
Bake the egg cups for about 17
minutes until the whites are set, the yolks are cooked to your liking, and the toast points are golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and run the tip of a butter knife around the edge of each cup to loosen it from the pan.
Let the toast cups cool for a few minutes, then carefully remove them from the pan (two forks make this easier). Garnish with chopped chives and serve.
Broccoli Cheddar Tart
Cookbook author Lisa Steele makes her own pâte brisée dough, but you can use your favorite pastry crust recipe or go store bought. And the pan? A pie plate, a tart pan or a rectangular oven- safe pan all work, says Steele, but “I use a 4½ x 14- inch tart pan with a removable bottom, because that makes the tart easy to cut into thin slices to serve as an appetizer or ‘nibble.’ ” Serves 12 to 14.
Ingredients FOR THE PATE BRISEE CRUST:
1¼ cups all- purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (1 stick) butter, cut into ½- inch
cubes and chilled
¼ cup ice water
FOR THE BROCCOLI CHEDDAR FILLING:
5 eggs
1 cup heavy cream
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¾ cup shredded Cheddar cheese 2 teaspoons all- purpose flour 4 uncooked breakfast sausage links,
crumbled, with skins removed ½ cup broccoli florets, chopped into
small pieces
¼ cup finely chopped onion
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Directions
For the crust: Add the flour and salt to a food processor. Add a few butter cubes at a time and pulse about 10 seconds, until the mixture forms coarse clumps. While the motor is running, slowly pour in the ice water and process until the dough starts to form a ball, about 30 seconds. You may not need all the water. Flatten the dough into a disc and wrap it in plastic wrap. Chill for 30 minutes and heat the oven to 400 degrees.
The crust needs to be blind- baked before the filling is added so it’s flaky and crisp, not soggy. Roll out the chilled dough on a floured surface and press it into a tart pan. Chill for another 30 minutes. Once chilled, prick the bottom of the dough with a fork, cover it with parchment paper or aluminum foil, and add pie weights or dried beans on top. Bake until the crust is set, about 16 to 18 minutes, then remove the weights and parchment and continue to bake another 10 to 12 minutes, until the
crust is lightly browned and nearly done. Then remove the crust from the oven and let it cool slightly while you prepare the filling.
Reduce the oven temperature to
325 degrees.
For the filling: While the crust is baking and cooling in the tart pan, whisk the eggs and cream in a bowl, then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. In a different small bowl, toss the shredded cheese and flour.
Cook the crumbled sausage in a medium- sized skillet over mediumhigh heat until browned and crispy. Remove the sausage from the pan and drain on a paper-towel- lined plate. Add the broccoli, onion, and garlic to the same pan and cook over medium- high heat until crispy and browned.
Arrange the sausage and vegetables on the crust and cover with the cheese mixture. Pour the egg mixture over the top, being careful not to disturb the vegetables and cheese. Bake 20 to 30 minutes, until the middle is set, and the crust is golden brown. Cover the crust with aluminum foil, if necessary, to keep it from browning too quickly. Remove the tart from the oven and let it cool slightly. Remove the sides of the pan and slice the tart into 1- inch wedges or slices. Serve warm or at room temperature.