The Denver Post

Here are the best cookbooks of 2023

A rigorously researched guide on Chinese cooking, a choose- your- own adventure for pasta lovers and more

- By The New York Times

Scroll on Instagram or Tiktok for even 10 seconds, and you know that recipe inspiratio­n is easier than ever to come by. Despite the fire hose of cooking videos available online, we still can’t resist the allure of the analog: cracking the spine of a new cookbook.

Hundreds of titles publish each year, and, once again, our staff set out to read and test dozens of them to help you determine which to buy for yourself — and which to give the home cooks you love most. There is something for everyone on this list, all 18 offering novel and thoughtful instructio­n, stunning photograph­y or illustrati­ons and, of course, delectable recipes. — Tanya Sichynsky

For the grill master who has yet to perfect tacos

“Asada: The Art of MexicanSty­le Grilling”: This cookbook ( Abrams), from the restaurate­ur Bricia Lopez and the writer Javier Cabral, is a blueprint for hosting your own asada, a celebratio­n built on heaping plates of grilled marinated meats that has spread from Sonora and Nuevo León, Mexico, to Southern California — and anywhere else friends, family and flavorful food are of the utmost importance. The recipes here will entice both the occasional backyard barbecuer and the diehard taco enthusiast, and Quentin Bacon’s photograph­y will make you want to make every single dish in this prismatic book. — Sara Bonisteel

What we made: Grilled Salpicón Tostadas ( Page 57); Lemony Horchata con Manzanilla ( Page 228)

For the detail- oriented cook

“A Very Chinese Cookbook: 100 Recipes From China and Not China ( But Still Really Chinese)”: What’s special about “A Very Chinese Cookbook” ( America’s Test Kitchen) is seeing all the recipe- testing rigor and nerdy food science of America’s Test Kitchen applied to classic dishes from all over China, Hong Kong especially, and the canon of American Chinese cooking. Even though the recipes are true to their roots — which can mean complex techniques and many ingredient­s — they’re doable for any cook, given the clear instructio­ns, helpful photos and detailed tips. As a bonus, the charming father- son pair Jeffrey Pang and Kevin Pang write about culinary history and share their personal stories without self- seriousnes­s, which makes the recipes feel less intimidati­ng and the reading a pleasure. — Genevieve Ko

What we made: Laohu Cai ( Tiger Salad, Page 69); Char Siu ( Page 324)

For the busy perfection­ist

“Bake Smart: Sweets and Secrets From My Oven to Yours”: “Bake Smart” ( William Morrow) is CliffsNote­s for bakers, and that’s a compliment. Samantha Seneviratn­e leaves out all of the unnecessar­y details that can trip up the unseasoned baker ( no sifting flour; use whatever butter you have) and shares only the crucial tricks needed to get truly impressive bakes. I produced Levain- worthy, puck- size chocolatec­herry cookies thanks to Seneviratn­e’s note to use straight- from- the- fridge butter, which keeps the dough nice and dense. And

with her friendly, clear instructio­ns, I nailed pillowy citrus- swirled buns on my first try. Seneviratn­e, who regularly contribute­s recipes to the Times, has written the perfect guide for anyone who wants to ace their baking with minimum study. — Mia Leimkuhler

What we made: Giant Choco Chunkies ( Page 59), Big, Fluffy Lemon and Orange Buns ( Page 210)

For the flexitaria­n With a thriving herb garden

“Ever- Green Vietnamese: Super- Fresh Recipes, Starring Plants From Land and Sea”: There isn’t a single question a home cook could come up with while cooking from Andrea Nguyen’s “Ever- Green Vietnamese” ( Ten Speed Press) that the author seemingly hasn’t already thought of. Each recipe comes with thoughtful annotation­s in the margins and detailed notes beneath for any challenge you may face: Forgot to pick up hoisin for char sui cauliflowe­r bao sliders? Nguyen jotted down a DIY substituti­on for you. Trying to cook as efficientl­y as possible? She has suggestion­s for how to time things just right. It’s as though she’s in your head, anticipati­ng your needs. Which is good, because I need a banh mi, and she’s provided the most comprehens­ive blueprint for making one using any number of fillings readily available in the book. — Tanya Sichynsky

What we made: Banh Tom ( Crispy Sweet Potato and Shrimp Fritters, Page 93); Dau Hu Chien Sa Ot ( Twice- Fried Lemongrass Tofu, Page 231)

For the cook who wants the story behind every dish

“For the Culture: Phenomenal Black Women and Femmes in Food”: With more interviews and essays than recipes, Klancy Miller’s phenomenal book leans more anthology than cookbook. Although the dishes are arguably not the main draw, the narratives pull double duty, centering Black women and femmes, and injecting palpable life into the recipes. Through stellar storytelli­ng and approachab­le recipes — which include luscious desserts, simple weeknight dishes and zippy cocktails — “For the Culture” ( Harper Collins) reminds readers of the tremendous impact of Black culture on food. Very few cookbooks achieve the narrative layers that Miller builds here. — Eleanore Park

What we made: Caribbean Green Shrimp ( Page

64); Single- Layer Carrot Cake ( Page 244)

For the weeknight warrior

“Indian Flavor Every Day: Simple Recipes and Smart Techniques to Inspire”: In Maya Kaimal’s “Indian Flavor Every Day” ( Clarkson Potter), sections on stocking a pantry robust with Indian flavors and on creating your own spice blends are combined with clear and concise recipes that consist of both traditiona­l and modern takes. While the focus is getting dinner on the table, there’s a chapter for those with a sweet tooth, in which Kaimal imparts desserts that aren’t traditiona­lly Indian, like a chocolate tart, with deep flavor using ingredient­s like garam masala. Most recipes include clever serving suggestion­s — add coconut milk to leftover dal for a satisfying soup — and plenty of substituti­ons and cooking tips for ease of use. — Cathy Lo

What we made: Red Lentil Dal With Spinach ( Page 142); Turkey Keema With Sweet Potatoes ( Page 158)

For the American “Bake- Off” lover

“Love Is a Pink Cake: Irresistib­le Bakes for Morning, Noon and Night”: Claire Ptak, the California- born owner of Violet Bakery in London, brings her seasonal West Coast sensibilit­y to a classic roster of British desserts in “Love Is a Pink Cake” ( W. W. Norton & Co.), her second cookbook. The results are dazzling, at once innovative and homey. Her rice pudding — a creamy, easy- to- make marvel that calls for toasting the rice in brown butter before baking it in cream — has become my go- to recipe. Buy this for the baker in your life, and hope they’ll thank you with bakewell bars or apricot chamomile scones. — Melissa Clark

What we made: Blackberry and Rose Walnut Crumble Cake ( Page 7); Rice Pudding ( Page 207)

For the hungry traveler whose passport just expired

“Made in Taiwan: Recipes and Stories From the Island Nation”: To create the authoritat­ive “Made in Taiwan” ( Simon Element), Clarissa Wei, a Taiwanese American journalist based in Taipei, enlisted a village, with carefully researched recipes culled from chefs and home cooks across Taiwan. Tested and polished by Ivy Chen, a cooking instructor, the recipes are brought to life by photograph­y from an all- Taiwanese team that deftly captures context, atmosphere and spirit. Evocative, observant, poetic and passionate, Wei’s writing celebrates and asserts Taiwanese identity through its cuisine. — Alexa Weibel

What we made: Cold Sesame Noodles ( Page 141); Popcorn Chicken ( Page 239)

For your cool cousin who shares her cooking on Tiktok

“Mayumu: Filipino American Desserts Remixed”: I don’t know the food blogger Abi Balingit personally, but if she’s anything like her new cookbook — vibrant, fun, smart — I’d like to. “Mayamu” ( Harvest), which means sweet in Kapampanga­n, includes 75 “remixed Filipino desserts” like an ube skillet crinkle cookie, horchata bibingka and her crazy popular adobo chocolate chip cookies. The recipes aren’t just visually stunning; they taste great, too. Most recipes call for at least one ingredient that will need to be bought online or from Filipino markets, but they’re well worth seeking out if you don’t have them already. — Margaux Laskey

What we made: Cookies and Cream Suman Moron ( Page 47); Basic Pandesal ( Page 190)

For the aspiring pastry chef

“More Than Cake: 100 Baking Recipes Built for Pleasure and Community”: Known for her striking f lavor combinatio­ns that speak to both her California childhood and Chinese heritage, the pastry chef Natasha Pickowicz overflows her first book with the unexpected. She fills flaky pie crust with adzuki beans and brown butter, turns miso soup into the filling for a savory danish and fries salty capers as the topping for an elegant olive oil cake. Her nubby granola shortbread­s ( which are gluten- free) are supremely crumbly and buttery, dissolving on the tongue in bursts of sandy sweetness that make them almost impossible to stop eating. With recipes that manage to be both cerebral and whimsical, this is the ideal book for the daring baker who’s ready for more. — Melissa Clark

What we made: Citrusy Macaroons ( Page 23); Nubby Granola Shortbread ( Page 25); Olive Oil Cake With Crispy Capers ( Page 93)

For the history buff with a Spice Club subscripti­on

“On the Curry Trail: Chasing the Flavor That Seduced the World”: After exploring curry’s prominence across the Indian subcontine­nt in “660 Curries” in 2008, Raghavan Iyer in his final cookbook examined how curry covered the globe. Thoughtful­ly researched but invitingly warm, with its conversati­onal tone, approachab­le recipes and vibrant illustrati­ons, “On the Curry Trail” ( Workman) comprises four sections: Asia; Africa and the Middle East; Europe and Oceania; and the Americas. Cooked from or perused, the book will deeply expand your understand­ing of curry — as well as the organic nature of foodways and the myth of authentici­ty. — Alexa Weibel

What we made: Prawn Curry With Darkened Cinnamon ( Page 34), Chicken Lemongrass Curry With Potatoes ( Page 55)

For the aunt who’s also getting a pasta maker

“Pasta Every Day: Make It, Shape It, Sauce It, Eat It”: Meryl Feinstein smartly split “Pasta Every Day” ( Voracious) into four sections — doughs, shapes, fillings and sauces — and then provided pairing suggestion­s, which is great for those of us who like to choose our own adventures. The tone is both informativ­e and reassuring, and the beautiful images, as well as the helpful step- by- step photos for shaping pasta, ensure that neither this book nor that glossy new pasta roller will be relegated to the basement. — Cathy Lo

What we made: Ricotta Gnocchi Dough ( Page 60); Broccoli Sauce ( Page 281)

For the writer who cooks

“The Secret of Cooking: Recipes for an Easier Life in the Kitchen”: As a writer, I couldn’t stop reading Bee Wilson’s chatty, smooth prose in “The Secret of Cooking” ( W. W. Norton & Company), my new kitchen companion. As a cook, I was delighted to know that if I worked through every recipe in this book — which reads like an essay for living as much as a witch’s Book of Shadows — I would learn something new about cooking with each one. Some recipes are essentials, such as Wilson’s “universal sauces”: her go- to red curry, cilantro chutney and tomato sauce. And others, like her butterpoac­hed carrots, may positively change your life. The lessons here are humble yet lasting. — Eric Kim

What we made: Magic Pasta ( Page 25); Raymond’s Butter- Poached Carrots ( Page 37)

For the worldly carbivore

“The Simple Art of Rice: Recipes From Around the World for the Heart of Your

Table”: “Rice is culture” is the mission statement at JJ Johnson’s Harlem restaurant Fieldtrip, and the recipes in “The Simple Art of Rice” ( Flatiron Books) reinforce that ethos. Beginning with a helpful guide to rice cooking techniques, as well as troublesho­oting advice, the book stuns with rich photograph­y and charming watercolor illustrati­ons by Danica Novgorodof­f. And the recipes, which range from simple and weeknight appropriat­e to project cooking, celebrate dishes from every culture in which rice is a staple. — Becky Hughes

What we made: Lemony Chicken and Rice Soup ( Page 207), Charleston Red Rice ( Page 145)

For cooks who don’t think they’re bakers

“Snacking Bakes: Simple Recipes for Cookies, Bars, Brownies, Cakes and More”: I have a hard time following baking recipes to the letter. I want to play with the ingredient­s based on my tastes or whims, or the contents of my fridge. “Snacking Bakes” ( Clarkson Potter) is made for curious, improvisin­g cooks like me. Yossy Arefi, who regularly contribute­s recipes to the Times, offers substituti­ons and swaps for each recipe, including tips for how to adjust for different pans or formats ( like turning a cake into cupcakes). After making her supereasy, aptly named do- itall shortbread, I had to make the buckwheat variation just for fun. Crucially, none of the recipes I tried were too sweet, perfect for, you know, snacking. — Mia Leimkuhler

What we made: Shortbread ( Page 46); Chocolate Ricotta Cake ( Page 143) For the nervous cook ( or jaded kitchen vet)

“Start Here: Instructio­ns for Becoming a Better Cook”: In “Start Here” ( Knopf), her debut cookbook, Sohla El- Waylly, who regularly appears in NYT Cooking videos, delivers the new “Joy of Cooking” for a globally minded generation of curious cooks. She dispenses the wisdom of a profession­al chef with none of the ego, delivering cooking fundamenta­ls in a voice that balances selfdeprec­ation, science and just enough cheerleadi­ng to guide both the novice and the veteran through complex projects, like saffronsta­ined tahdig, or simpler pursuits, like a whole broiled fish with limey cabbage slaw or beginner’s drop cookies with Fritos and marshmallo­ws. — Kim Severson

What we made: Monday Chicken Dinner for Winners ( Page 254); Add Anything Drop Cookies ( Page 294)

For the wannabe vegetarian with a soft side

“Tenderhear­t: A Cookbook About Vegetables and Unbreakabl­e Family Bonds”: “Tenderhear­t” ( Knopf ) will not only equip you to face whatever meatless resolution­s you set for the new year. It will also inspire you to call your parents. Hetty Lui Mckinnon imbues the chapters — each dedicated to a different vegetable — with stories of her father, a produce wholesaler in Sydney, Australia, who died when the author was 15. Her recipes are as creative as her writing is moving, and, like a loving parent, she sets you up for success throughout: Mckinnon, who regularly contribute­s recipes to The Times, provides ample substituti­ons and tips for making dishes in this book vegan- friendly or gluten- free. — Tanya Sichynsky

What we made: Cabbage and Kimchi Okonomiyak­i ( Page 106); Eggplant, “Char Siu” Style ( Page 193)

 ?? THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? The best cookbooks of 2023, from The New York Times.
THE NEW YORK TIMES The best cookbooks of 2023, from The New York Times.

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