A bowl of lentils and rice is essential comfort food across so many cultures, be it South Asian khichdi, Middle Eastern mujadara or Greek fakorizo. No matter how traditional recipes differ, combining lentils and rice always results in a dish that’s thrifty, hearty and infinitely adaptable, inspiring as many appealing variations as there are inventive cooks.
For Nasim Alikhani, the owner of Sofreh restaurant in Brooklyn, lentils and rice means adas polo, a recipe she brought with her when she moved to New York from Isfahan, Iran, at age 23.
“It was my budget meal for those first years in the U.S.,” she said, a filling, fragrant and highly economical mix of lentils, rice and onions that she cooked for herself when she was a student and then later for her family when she was a young mother.
During Ramadan, which began Sunday, adas polo is also a staple for breaking the fast. Some years, when Alikhani was growing up, her family cooked hundreds of containers of the dish to distribute as an act of charity, which is customary during the holy month.
“It’s what you serve when you want to feed a lot of people,” Alikhani said.
The beauty of the recipe is that it can be as simple or elaborate as you like. Some cooks mix in morsels of lamb or beef. Some lay lavash or potato slices on the bottom of the pot to create a crispy tahdig. Dried fruit like apricots, prunes, raisins and dates can add sweetness; nuts give it a crunch. At Sofreh, Alikhani sprinkles the dish with saffron and rose water-scented clarified butter, which emits a delicate perfume.
But this more minimalist version, the one she still cooks at home, is closest to Alikhani’s heart. In it, she simmers the lentils and rice with just a touch of turmeric and cinnamon, then serves it layered with caramelized onions, butter-warmed dates and a handful of fresh herbs. A dollop of yogurt and, occasionally, a fried egg, are all it needs to make a complete meal.
“At the restaurant, I have to fight with people not to eat it with the fesenjan or beef stew,” she said. “It’s better on its own.” 1. Bring 4 cups water to boil
Ingredients for adas polo. A bowl of lentils and rice is essential comfort food across many cultures. with warm spices and in a medium saucepan over strewn with fried onions is high heat. Add the lentils, a classic Persian dish with cinnamon, turmeric and 2 infinite variations. This tablespoons salt. Stir well minimalist take, from Nasim to combine, breaking up any Alikhani, the owner of Sofreh clumps. Cover and reduce restaurant in Brooklyn, heat to medium. Simmer keeps things quick and until the lentils are cooked simple, and uses just a few but still have a bite, 7 to 10 pantry-friendly ingredients. minutes. Drain lentils and The lentils and rice set aside. are cooked together in the 2. Using the same medium same pot, then layered with saucepan, bring 2 cups water a mixture of caramelized to a boil. Add the rice, onions and plump, sweet cooked lentils, 1 teaspoon dates, as well as chopped salt and enough hot water fresh herbs for brightness. to cover the rice by 1 inch. A dollop of yogurt on top Cook, uncovered, until all adds a tart and creamy the water is absorbed, 10 to touch. Feel free to riff on 14 minutes. this basic recipe, adding 3. Reduce heat to low, nuts for crunch, stirring wrap the pot lid in a clean in other spices like cardamom, kitchen towel, cover the ginger and saffron, pan and let the rice steam and substituting the likes for 10 minutes. Fluff rice of raisins, dried apricots with a fork; taste and add or dried cranberries for the salt if needed. dates. At Sofreh, the dish is finished with a dash of 4. While the rice is cooking, rosewater and melted butter prepare the onion-date for extra richness and mixture: In a skillet, heat 4 perfume. — Recipe from tablespoons oil or clarified Nasim Alikhani, adapted by butter until hot but not Melissa Clark smoking. Add onions and a
pinch of salt, and cook until Yield: 6to 8servings. Total the onions are dark golden time: 45 minutes. and a little crispy, 9 to 14 minutes. Transfer onions to a bowl and return the skillet to the heat.
5. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the skillet and, once hot, add the dates and warm them through, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir dates into the bowl with the onions.
6. To serve, spoon a layer of rice and lentils into a warmed serving bowl, then add a layer of onion-date mixture and sprinkle with chopped herbs. Keep alternating layers, ending with the onion-date mixture and a final sprinkling of herbs. Drizzle with more oil and top with a dollop of yogurt if you like.
TIP: If you don’t have clarified butter but would like a buttery flavor, you can use 2 tablespoons unsalted butter to warm the dates, and then top the dish with more melted butter. Be sure to use olive oil (or clarified butter) for the onions or they might burn.
DAVID MALOSH — THE NEW YORK TIMES
Adas polo, a Persian recipe perfumed with cinnamon and layered with caramelized onions and dates, only feels expensive.